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Smear, edge and stem the right arching slabby dihedral, then drop to intersecting dihedral and finish on the anchors of the bolted route next to it. Bring a few slings to reduce rope drag. It is a great beginner lead for aspiring trad climbers. There are 3 different options for the start which provides variety to the route. All 3 starts converge about 20' from the anchors in a dihedral.
This is a super fun route!
The route is the dihedral in red sandstone just north of the bolted sport route. There are 2 dihedrals, so you choose which you want to climb. They are found on the east side of the canyon at the top of the canyon. The dihedrals are very obvious features. It is the only clean slab along the entire red rock section of the canyon.
Trad rack of nuts and cams to #3 Camalot should do.
Route shares anchor bolt and chain anchor with the sport route 8' to the south. Bring extra webbing to replace old.
Jul 25, 2009
Ryan replaced the webbing in April so it should still be good.
By M.L. Barker
Oct 25, 2013
Route was not put up by Bob.