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Dunce Rock
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Mudgumbis  
Unknown T 

Unknown 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b C1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b C1 [details]
FA: FA - Joe Forrester, Jeremy Aslaksen, Olde English, Sparks, Natty Lite, March 2007
Page Views: 1,417
Submitted By: Tristan Higbee on Mar 17, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: Beta topo.

Description 

If this isn't the North Face route described in Desert Rock III, then I don't know what it is. It IS, however, an "obvious route on the north side of the tower" (as stated in the book). And it's easy.

Climb up a short 4th class section to a large ledge. Make a couple easy moves (these can be protected by a cam and/or a sling around a horn if desired) to the first of five drilled fixed/drilled pitons. A few of the pins stick out, but some of them may have tie-off slings on them. Climb C1 to the top.

Location 

This route is on the north side (the side that faces away from the parking lot/campsite) of the tower.

Protection 

5 draws/slings. One cam (green Camalot?) and a sling for the free climbing.


Photos of Unknown Slideshow Add Photo
Drunken summit photo. What a nice day!
Drunken summit photo. What a nice day!
solid piece
solid piece
Red line is the route we took to the big ledge. Then we wound around to the other side. Cams and beaks. The blue lines are other routes that look like mostly nailing.
Red line is the route we took to the big ledge. Th...
mud summit
mud summit
This shows the crack system that leads to the ledge. I assume it had been done before. Nice line.
This shows the crack system that leads to the ledg...
Looking down the route from the anchors. For soloists, there are some nice trees that you can tie off.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the route from the anchors. For soloi...
fun stuff
fun stuff
time to learn how to jumar
time to learn how to jumar
Looking up at the route from below.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the route from below.
Dunce from the drainage
BETA PHOTO: Dunce from the drainage
The C1 section
BETA PHOTO: The C1 section
bondo cruxing
bondo cruxing

Comments on Unknown Add Comment
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By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Mar 17, 2009

This is a fun, easy tower to tick. And it's not scary at all! There is cryptobiotic soil on the approach, so watch out for that.
By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 18, 2009

Not the North Face route. My buddy Joe and I did this route a couple years back.

The reason the angles are sticking out is that they were some sort of Cassin baby angle and they were a bit too big for the hole.

There are routes all over this thing.

We started on the other side, towards the right end of the formation and wound our way around the formation.

Didn't even know this thing had a name.

Good to do when you are drunk as it's a short hop from the parking lot. Fun stuff.

Jeremy
By Joe Forrester
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Mar 22, 2009

Wow, I never thought anyone would go back and do this one! It is fun though, especially with OE as company. Jer and I did this one back in March 2007, Jer took the first pitch and I did the second. I believe this was what got us interested in using beaks.
By Aaron Child
Apr 19, 2009

Wow! thanks for putting this up tristan, this is rad. I thought no one knew this tower even existed. You should put up H.J. Pinnacle and High Roller too...if you can find them :) (if you haven't already, that is)
By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
Nov 23, 2009

FA - Joe Forrester, Jeremy Aslaksen, Olde English, Sparks, Natty Lite
March 2007
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Nov 17, 2012

another fun little tower. bondo took the sharpie on one. his first aid lead. the pins are going to have to be replaced a some point soon. you can get a good finger size piece just below and left of the first pin and a couple less than good pieces below that. fun stuff
By Noah8000
From: Vail, CO
Mar 18, 2013

After a couple PBR's I went and got on this today with a couple buddies. I ended up freeing it all at 5.10+? Something like that....Had to clean a bit of mud. And the pitons made it interesting as far as not wanting to fall on them. Perhaps the FFA of the tower? I don't know. Either way, the free climbing is quite good on the pitch.
By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 18, 2013

All,

Please feel free to pull angles and drill deeper holes...or pull them and re-drill to 1/2 inch and place bolts.

Be safe.

Jeremy Aslaksen
ABQ,NM
By Keith Sharp
May 17, 2013

Don't know how long the pitons are, you can only see how far they extend from the rock, but they look scary. Didn't have my drill, or I would have fixed them. They held body weight with a tie off, but I wouldn't want to fall on any of them. The rock around one of the rap bolts has eroded away a half inch or so. There are good placements for 0.4 and #1 Camalots to augment the pitons.

This route could be called "North Face Left." There are couple of new-looking bolts on the right of the north face above a wide crack system, maybe additions to the old north face route???
By Max Supertramp
Oct 15, 2013
rating: Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c C1 PG13

Those drilled angles are dubious!