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This fine route is one of the better hard lines at Tornado Alley, thanks to its sustained nature. There is no really distinct crux, but several sections that will keep your attention until the very end. A scary sequence getting to the clipping stance for the second bolt detracts somewhat. Stick-clipping this bolt is recommended if you have a long enough pole.
Begin in the wash or traverse out left from the end of the ledge. After clipping the first bolt, the line heads left into the large huecos of "Fujimata" before busting back right with the help of a sharp but deep two-finger pocket. A good crimp sets you up for a short dyno to the large jug past the second bolt. A fall before clipping this bolt would not be pretty.
Head up for ten feet, then traverse left as you surmount the roof with more dynamic moves. A mediocre rest is possible over the roof. Head up for 15 feet before a traverse back right and more good holds lead to the chains.
First bolted route right of "Fujimata". This route is not shown on the photo topo. Its located half-way between Route # 9 and Route # 10 on the photo topo.
Bolts, 2 BA.
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jan 21, 2013
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b
I was able to get the second bolt clipped from the large Huecos, it was a bit of a stretch, but helped my piece of mind for the strenuous moves in that area.
|By Craig Childre|
From: Lubbock, Texas
Jul 1, 2013
Watched Gogas put this route up back in 2005 day before the canyon flooded.