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Start just right of the tiered roof that is Never Never land. Boulder up the first bolt on harder than it looks rock. Clip the first bolt and pull the crux on underclings or small pockets. Don't worry it get's easier from here. Continue up pulling a small overhang to a nice ledge. Continue up passing 4 more bolts on large holds to the anchor.
I had put off doing this route as it is one of three climbs that don't get any stars in the Enchanted Tower Guide. Guide warns about large loose blocks by the second bolt. While there are some large "features" here I didn't find them loose or unattached from the main rock. This may have cleaned up substantially over the past few years.
Slightly run-out between the 2nd and third bolt. Although it is easy here there is a nice ledge to hit and maybe the ground. Picture shows the distance between them right after i've clipped the third bolt.
To the right of the giant overhung arete that is Never Never Land. Just left of Labour of Love.
6 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.
|By Matt Price|
Nov 10, 2007
This climb is pretty fun, and worth doing (at least once). However, it is a little scary being about 25ft off the ground and wondering if you could deck if you somehow botched the clip. Not the greatest choice for bolt placement in my opinion.