Unknown  5.10b

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Type:  Sport, 70 feet Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  Unknown Submitted By:  DisturbingThePeace on Oct 2, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Mike on an unknown 5.10 at Pogues Cave.

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Thompson Canyon's southern access via the private ranch is now closed. MORE INFO >>> The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route. See below for details. New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if we can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure and spread the word. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Start just right of the tiered roof that is Never Never land. Boulder up the first bolt on harder than it looks rock. Clip the first bolt and pull the crux on underclings or small pockets. Don't worry it get's easier from here. Continue up pulling a small overhang to a nice ledge. Continue up passing 4 more bolts on large holds to the anchor.

I had put off doing this route as it is one of three climbs that don't get any stars in the Enchanted Tower Guide. Guide warns about large loose blocks by the second bolt. While there are some large "features" here I didn't find them loose or unattached from the main rock. This may have cleaned up substantially over the past few years.

Slightly run-out between the 2nd and third bolt. Although it is easy here there is a nice ledge to hit and maybe the ground. Picture shows the distance between them right after i've clipped the third bolt.

Location 

To the right of the giant overhung arete that is Never Never Land. Just left of Labour of Love.

Protection 

6 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.