|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600', Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Dougald MacDonald on Aug 24, 2007|
|Comments on Unknown||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Legs Magillicutty
Dec 19, 2007
|Thank you for posting this route! My partner and I went up there this past summer to attempt to find this line but to no avail. With good weather it would be amazing and a long day to combine this with Kasparov and then descend via Queen's Way on Apache if the snow is there. Thanks again!!|
By Greg Sievers
From: Bozeman, MT
Sep 3, 2008
9-1-08; found the route. On the left end of the big grassy ledge. However, I would caution anyone to be well versed & experienced in climbing past (not on) loose rock, and heady, high alpine, old-school ratings. I ran the 1st 2 pitches together and belayed below the opposing dihedrals. it felt like solid 5.8+R to me. As for P2: most of the 5.9 was VS, tricky, dicey, runout, or powerful. Just have your 5.10 head screwed on tight. We probably should have yanked the pins on P3 for historic booty, but didn't.
Re: the pin ladder: you can get a solid #0.75 Camalot next to the first one, then a #1 near the 2nd, and a #3 adjacent & left of the flake.
P.S.: the last 40' is slightly overhanging.
As for P5: a very, very exposed, leaning, downward, 5.9 traverse slightly below the notch, followed by 150' of 4th class.
The remainder is all 3rd class to the summit.
We made the return hike from the Mountain's summit to the parking lot in 1.5 hours.