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Unknown 

5.10+

   
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Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10+ [details]
FA: 
Submitted By: Scott Tucker on Dec 18, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Description 

This climb is unnamed and rated 5.10 in the Tucson Select Sport Climbing book. It has some hard moves and the clips are very tricky and sketchy on the lower part. The crux move feels harder than straight 5.10.


Location 

Leftmost route on the Main Wall, left of I've Been Robbed.


Protection 

Bolts & chains.



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By Steve Pulver
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 21, 2006

Maybe some day... a generous person will improve the bolt locations on this route, by either moving the first bolt up, or the second bolt down. I've seen one bad fall with the climber hitting the belayer in the head, hard.

By Jimbo
Jan 3, 2007

The second bolt should be moved down. The next time I'm in there with the old Bosch I'll move it.

By Rick Shull
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Jan 22, 2007
rating: 5.10+

This route would be pretty decent without the deck potential. It's thin all the way through from the 1st to 2nd bolt making the clip difficult even if the bolt were lower. I decked from about 15+ feet(at the 2nd clip) and the rope came tight just as I hit, keeping me from falling backward down the hill. I pulled through 2nd try using a different clipping hold. What turned out to be a normal day sport climbing could of been bad if my belayer had been standing directly below me. I had assessed the route and noticed the ground fall potential, so I asked my belayer to stand off to one side. Just a reminder to be "heads up".

By Braxtron
From: ...
Jan 29, 2007
rating: 5.10

I'm the climber Steve means by his 'cracking the belayer in the head' anecdote. Moving between the 1st and 2nd bolts is the crux, and since the bolt placements are horrible at best, you're basically doing it sans pro. In my opinion, the crux is the only 5.10 move on this climb, the rest is 8-9 at best and not enjoyable. Avoid.

By Steve Pulver
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 2, 2007

After thinking a little more about this, I'm not really sure where the bolts should be. All I know is I don't like the clipping stance for the second bolt.

By jbak
Feb 2, 2007

So then this route lets you do a little soloing, or lets you practice down-climbing. Both contribute to your skills.

By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 21, 2008
rating: 5.10d

this route is worth doing, and it took all of us multiple tries to send it so it's harder than 5.10.