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 ADVANCED
Middle Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anal Sex 
Candyass 
Candyland 
Chainsaw Willie 
Clam, The 
Cockabooty 
Corn Flakes 
Fancy Dancin' 
Hard Up 
Harding's Other Chimney 
Hooray Hooray! 
Lean And Mean 
Leaner and Meaner 
Over Easy 
Penny Candy 
Prow, The 
Rain Song 
Regular Route 
Slowdancer 
Tyro's Test Piece 
Unknown 
Unnamed 

Unknown 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 298
Submitted By: Blitzo on Sep 15, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Downward facing flake at the start of Unknown 5.9 ...

Description 

Mistakenly listed as "Anal Sex" in the Supertopo guide.
Climb a left leaning lieback, then climb face to the ledge.
Climb 5.8 face to the summit.


Protection 

Best to top rope or solo.



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By Floyd Hayes
Sep 13, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R

The two pitches of "Anal Sex" in the SuperTopo guide were fun top-ropes and looked like they would be good leads. They deserve a formal name! We encountered a bunch of wasps guarding the diagonal crack on the upper part of the second pitch.