The crux to Unknown is getting off the ground on very thin hands and feet and continues thin getting up to and past the second bolt. The first good hold is about level with third bolt. From here on up the climbing eases but is still great face climbing.
Unknown is on the Grouse Slab East Face which is found a tier up off the ground about 150 yards right of Jellyroll Arch and Insidious Crack. East Face is quite easy to spot as the left side has a smooth face with a bulgy overhang about 25' up. East Face is split by an obvious right slanting wide crack called The Slash. Unknown climbs the thin face just right of the The Slash.
4 bolts protect this climb adequately. A little runout to the anchors but the difficulty eases quite a bit. You could veer left to easier ground of The Slash if you need to. Double older bolt-like anchors (not sure what these types are called) can be used to rappel.
|By Paul Rezucha|
Jun 25, 2006
I don't know if the name of this climb is unknown or if the climbs name is Unknown. If anyone can give more info, I will gladly update this posting. Yesterday's conditions were very tough for a climb like this, 90 degrees and full sun. The rock was VERY hot and the rubber on my boots seemed to be melting off the holds. Anyone want to comment on the rating of this climb? I would imagine the climb would climb easier in better cooler conditions? It felt like hard 10 and certainly seemed harder than the opening moves of Pebble in the Sky. I rated it 10b here mainly because I actually made it (after a couple tries getting off the ground) in the conditions.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 21, 2009
Paul, I lead this route in shade and I also rated it somewhere between 10b-10c (and I, uh, like slab). I agree the start is heads up! The cruxiest part for me was the move directly after leaving your first clipping stance...seemed really difficult in terms of balance and ultra-committing with the feet on marginal smears.
Short people may have a harder time clipping the first bolt from the most optimal stance: my partner was 5'1" and there is no way she could have clipped from where I stood (and I had to stretch up a little myself).
From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Oct 11, 2009
The "old" bolts on this climb are sketchy, they spin and the rock around the bolts have been glued.
From: Rocklin, Ca
Jul 3, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I agree that this climb feels like .10c in comparison to other area slab climbs in the same difficulty range like Rocco's Demise or Eye Of Silver. The crux is getting to the first bolt, and the climbing stays consistent until the third bolt. After the fourth bolt you can continue straight up on slightly run-out low angle slab. A better, and longer version, is to traverse up and right on positive edges and jugs to the second bolt of The Slide and finish on the better bolts of this route. I thought it was well protected and the bolts on route all seemed pretty good to me. The only questionable bolts were the so-so anchors. The only PGish part felt like clipping the second bolt, during which a fall could produce a less than 20' deck slide with an inexperienced/unattentive belayer, but even with that the landing zone is pretty good under this route. Enjoyed the route, a solid but not overwhelming lead for slab enthusiasts.