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Storm Mountain Island
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amphitheater Overhang Left S 
Amphitheater Overhang Right 
Aqualung S 
Big in Japan S 
Bolt Route T 
Captain Jack T 
Closing the Gap Variation T 
Coco Moco T 
Edge of Time T 
Encore T 
Epic Wall T 
Flake, The T 
Generation Gap T,TR 
Goodro's Wall T 
La Creme De Shorts T,TR 
Layback Crack T 
Nice Little Crack T,TR 
Padded Cell S 
Six Appeal S 
Six Pence S 
Steve The Pirate T,S 
Storm Mountain Stupor T 
Thin Slice of Time T 
Unknown T 
Unknown 1 S 
Unknown 2 S 

Unknown 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Lenny Nelson
Page Views: 1,229
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO: 2 Nice Little Crack. 3 Unknown Face. 4 Storm Mou...

Description 

Approach as per Nice Little Crack. This is the bolted face. Tricky start over the 1st roof, leads to edges and fun climbing. Midway you will find a bulge, friction over this avoiding the foot crack to the left. Finally, trick #3, pop over the top roof. And there... the anchors?.


Protection 

2 bolts atop for the anchor, BEWARE one is suspect. Also, 7 draws for the route. You will also need a small set of medium gear for the upper roof.



Photos of Unknown Slideshow Add Photo
Pete on Lenny's Route (my vote for the route name instead of "unknown"...
Pete on Lenny's Route (my vote for the route name ...
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By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
Apr 22, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I climbed this in Fall 2001. The anchor at the top was pretty crappy. Look for a (better) third bolt up above the first two (one of which spins). I found a CTR ring up here on a tiny (2"x2") ledge. Weird.

By Harvey Miller
Jun 16, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Yeah, one of the anchors at the top is bad. A good option is to use the good anchor as a bolt, and then finish the climb by traversing to the left to the anchors at the top of Nice Little Crack. Its not very far. Belay your follower from the top, and then rap from those anchors.

By Walt Haas
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 28, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

IIRC Lenny Nelson told me a few years ago that he had bolted this route. Unfortunately I forgot the name he gave it :-( Nice route though.

With TR protection, you can climb the slightly more difficult face a few feet to climber's left of the bolts.

By tony tuttle
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 7, 2010
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13

Climbed on 9/5/2010. I liked the crag, nice place to get away to on an otherwise crowded Storm Mountain Saturday. Nobody else ventured to these climbs.

The climb itself is pretty fun. Nothing too difficult, the crux for me was where the blocky holds disappear and there are a couple of smeary moves on rounded rock.

The roof was really fun to pull over as well but nothing too crazy.

The suspect bolt is still there. We backed up the anchor with a nut placed a little lower.

This place is worth the extra approach if you don't want to fight crowds.

By Daniel Winder
Aug 17, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Needlessly PG-13. The last bolt is way too low to prevent a ledge fall if you somehow blew it going over the roof.

By DrApnea
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 30, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Done in approach shoes. A fun line, no harder than 5.7, It really should be a trad climb though since nearly every bolt had a spot for pro within 3 feet of it if you had the right gear (Tricams, nuts, and mastercams).