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Unknown Twin-Crack to Corner 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
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Page Views: 94
Submitted By: J. Hickok on Mar 18, 2012

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Description 

Climb two cracks to a ledge. Squirm into a flared chimney and climb thin hands to another stance below an offwidth. After climbing the offwidth, follow a thin hands crack that widens a little before the anchor. Depending on hand size, you might find the crux to be either moving through the offwidth or the thin hands section after the offwidth.

Location 

I don't know how you will have already arrived at the cliff (trail hard to find, if even present), but once you are at the cliff, travel along the base to the right (southeast).

Gain a ledge system by easy scrambling that accesses several established routes. The first obvious route on the ledge is a short hand crack. The next route over is this "unknown" route with no plaque and little guidebook info.

The route begins with a crack on the left face and a wider crack in a corner. It then gains a ledge about 30 ft up which is just below an offwidth. Continue up offwidth to left facing corner. Anchors in corner below a roof.

Protection 

Heavy on thin hands with at least three 2" cams recommended. Varied other gear - doubles probably a good idea (down to 0.75"). Wide gear for offwidth, probably 5" is adequate. Don't think I placed any 0.5 inch or smaller.

I don't think I was able to make it back down with a 70m, so consider two ropes or a 70m with bi-color middle marking (because I just might have used a 70m sucessfully - oh memory!).


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