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Reservoir Wall
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5.11

   
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Type: Trad, 2 pitches, 210 feet
Consensus: 5.11+ [details]
FA: ?
Submitted By: Bryan Gall on Sep 27, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Overlook begins to the right of "wiggling worm" & "three fools" in a less than vertical splitter that turns into a right facing dihedral. The first pitch anchors are not visible on a ledge halfway up the climb. The start jutts out on a pronounced pedestal defined by the late afternoon sun line. 1st pitch: Start with hands in a crack that quickly leans left and widens to 4-5"; good face features abound as the crack turns into a right facing dihedral. After a short vertical offwidth section (tee-hee-hee) the crack narrows down to fists then hands and dumps you onto a ledge. 2nd pitch: This right facing dihedral offers excellent hand and fist jams interrupted by some minor over hanging flaring offwidth pods; however, it's really hard to fall out when you can fit your whole leg in. Overall this is a great two pitch climb that gives the full flavor of desert climbing.


Protection 

Standard desert rack- at least a few big ass cams(2-3BD #2's, 2-3BD #3's, 2-3BD #3.5's, 2-3bd #4's, 2BD #4.5's, and maybe 1-2BD #5's) Poor anchor at first pitch1 drilled angle and a fixed small nut (sweet)



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By Mike Sokoloff
Dec 11, 2005
rating: 5.11d

This is not the route Overlook that you describe. Overlook is 2-pitches. The 2nd pitch is one of the Creek's finest overhanging splitters which is quite obvious when coming up the approach trail as a perfect splitter cleaving a headwall about 150 feet up. There is a plaque at the base of the first pitch which climbs discontinuous wide cracks to a ledge at the base of the awesome 2nd pitch splitter. A couple #4 Camalots were sufficient for the 1st pitch. I was able to climb the 1st pitch without tons of groveling. Either way, the 2nd pitch is worth the effort to get to it. Perfect rock, overhanging hands to thinhands with endurance as the crux.

By Bryan Gall
From: New Castle, CO
Oct 18, 2007

According to the new guide I had it wrong; this route description is for the route to the left of three fools in the new guide. It is two pitches and sweet...