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Entrance Tower
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Unknown (The FA that Wasn't) 

Unknown (The FA that Wasn't) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 267
Submitted By: Marcy on Oct 11, 2009
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Marcy on Unknown (The FA that Wasn't)

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Description 

Start up a wide-ish crack (grungy) then step left to the nice dihedral on the east face of Entrance Pinnacle; follow it to the top.

Descent: single rope rappel from a standard LDE rappel anchor (2 bolts w/quicklinks and leaver carabiners) on the east side of the tower, north (right) of where the route tops out.


Location 

East face of Entrance Pinnacle


Protection 

Standard rack to #4 Camalot



Photos of Unknown (The FA that Wasn't) Slideshow Add Photo
It's a fun tower to top out onto! Photo by Hanna.
It's a fun tower to top out onto! Photo by Hanna.
Comments on Unknown (The FA that Wasn't) Add Comment
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By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Nov 4, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

The wide crack at the bottom is a bit loose and grungy and can be avoided to make this a bit harder and nicer. Could still be a FA, Marcy, as there seem to be many ways to the top of this tower! Any which way, it's a fun climb.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 14, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

this is a fun climb, but the rock is not great and appears loose in places. a bold first ground-up FA by Marcy for sure!

By Marcy
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Feb 14, 2010

The wide crack at the beginning is short and grungy, but protects adequately. A direct start below the dihedral will add an unprotected challenge to those interested. The dihedral has various blocks wedged in the crack. The blocks seemed pretty secure to me and are not very large. That said, they have not yet passed the crowbar test.

The upgraded anchor is a great addition to this tower.

By Marcy
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Mar 24, 2010

Geir cleaned out the wide crack last w/e, making the route a bit less grungy. Think I've done this thing 4 or 5 times now and each time I enjoy the upper dihedral more and more. Good stuff.

By Cody Ferguson
From: Tempe, AZ
Nov 7, 2011

We did a 5.10ish alternative start up the finger crack/face directly below the main dihedral. It protected well. Made the climb a little more interesting.