Unknown (South Face Middle)
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Step up to the big roof. Place pro underneath (small cam) and turn the roof (1st crux) to horizontal handholds and the first bolt. The 2nd crux is right around the 2nd bolt in a thin slab section. Up higher, you'll pass a cool quartz vein and enter a right-facing dihedral with some tricky pro but easier climbing.
This climb is probably a little harder than the bolted climb to its right, and is almost as good. Like the nearby bolted climbs, it is well-protected, so it's a good climb for a someone breaking into the 5.9 grade at TP.
This is the middle of the 3 bolted climbs on the south face of South Rock. It starts at the lower right end of the big roof.
This is "Unknown #5" in 'Taos Rock'
3 bolts, plus some gear (nuts and cams from fingers to 2").
Rappel off the common anchor on the south side.
|Comments on Unknown (South Face Middle)
|By Hazen Goodyear|
Nov 27, 2008
This is a really fun climb! The 15 feet from the top of the block to the last bolt is sweet. I climbed it without knowing the grade and felt that the bolted part was a little harder then 5.9+, but then again my shoes have split toes. I only took nuts with me and only placed one of them. There are lot of places to put gear but after the last bolt the climbing eaes up (solid lay backs) and I felt ok running it out.
|By Daniel Trugman|
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Jul 4, 2010
I thought this was the best of the three "Unknown" mostly-bolted lines on this side of South Rock, though the other two are quite nice as well. Harder than the line to it's right, and only a little easier than the so-called "5.10+" to it's left.
From: Phoenix, AZ
Aug 8, 2012
Agree that this is the best of the three, mainly for its interesting movement and sequences. Liked being able to place gear where I wanted it and the fun exposure.