Unknown (South Face Middle) 5.9
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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>
The remainder are on US Forest Service land. A map detailing the public areas can be obtained from the ranger station en route to the rocks from the village of Tres Piedras.
According to Jan Studebaker: "The property line runs from approximately the current east corner by the access gate in a straight line over the top of South Rock to the top middle of the Chicken Heads/Mosaic Wall mount, and from there west down the mount slope to the meadow just south of the Alley climbs. Some of the most popular routes are completely on private property. There are survey markers on the top of South rock (the mysterious aluminum stake stuck in the rock) and on top of the Mosaic rock (most of the time buried in water in a pot hole.)"
A new online Tres Piedras Route Guide from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note. From the guide:
Access Notes: Tres Piedras climbers should sign the waiver found on this page because the popular South Rock is mostly on private land, as is some of the access to the area. The landowner, requests a waiver, NO fires, no chalk and "please close any gates".
In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.
On August 19, 2009 the landowner stated: "Yes I still own the property, and yes I'd still like to have waivers on hand - even or perhaps especially from your organization. Only once in awhile do I have problems with climbers, mostly not picking up after themselves. My biggest gripe is that despite repeated requests, the climbers don't remove protection (edit: colored webbing, shiny hardware) from the climbing routes, which is both lazy and unattractive. Your organization could do me a big favor by doing a group climb and removing the crap that others have left on the various routes so that it is both a pristine part of the landscape, and so that each climber must figure out his own route without relying on the handiwork of others."
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Step up to the big roof. Place pro underneath (small cam) and turn the roof (1st crux) to horizontal handholds and the first bolt. The 2nd crux is right around the 2nd bolt in a thin slab section. Up higher, you'll pass a cool quartz vein and enter a right-facing dihedral with some tricky pro but easier climbing.
This climb is probably a little harder than the bolted climb to its right, and is almost as good. Like the nearby bolted climbs, it is well-protected, so it's a good climb for a someone breaking into the 5.9 grade at TP.
Location This is the middle of the 3 bolted climbs on the south face of South Rock. It starts at the lower right end of the big roof.
This is "Unknown #5" in 'Taos Rock'
Protection 3 bolts, plus some gear (nuts and cams from fingers to 2").
Rappel off the common anchor on the south side.
| Comments on Unknown (South Face Middle) |
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By Hazen Goodyear
Nov 27, 2008
| This is a really fun climb! The 15 feet from the top of the block to the last bolt is sweet. I climbed it without knowing the grade and felt that the bolted part was a little harder then 5.9+, but then again my shoes have split toes. I only took nuts with me and only placed one of them. There are lot of places to put gear but after the last bolt the climbing eaes up (solid lay backs) and I felt ok running it out. |
By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Jul 4, 2010
rating: 5.9+
| I thought this was the best of the three "Unknown" mostly-bolted lines on this side of South Rock, though the other two are quite nice as well. Harder than the line to it's right, and only a little easier than the so-called "5.10+" to it's left. |
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Aug 8, 2012
rating: 5.9
| Agree that this is the best of the three, mainly for its interesting movement and sequences. Liked being able to place gear where I wanted it and the fun exposure. |
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