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Lizard Head Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Another Day At The Office T 
Blue Collar Crack T 
Cashmere Crack T 
Delicacy T 
Drama 
Errant Edge T 
King Lizard T 
Manager's Special T 
Maverick Line T,TR 
Part Time Crack T 
Red Neck Slab T 
Squeeze My Lemon T 
Unknown Slab T 
Unknown Slab/Crack T 
Wings of Perception T 
Zesty T 
Zigzag T 
Unsorted Routes:

Unknown Slab/Crack 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ? ?
Page Views: 866
Submitted By: grk10vq on Jul 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: There are three ways to access this climb. The blu...

Description 

To start this climb gain the mid-ledge by beginning in the alcove for Blue Collar Crack or Zesty or work your way up Part Time Crack. Once on this ledge look to the far left for a set of chicken heads on the slab. Follow this slab past four bolts up to a mini dihedral/lie-back finger crack. Get your digits deep in this crack, place a few small pieces and work your way up and right around two bulges through jams and lie-backs to finish at the anchors.

Location 

This climbs the mixed line directly left of Blue Collar Crack and right of King Lizard. the exact ending of this line is unknown.
you can finish on Blue Collar Crack anchors. (#8 in the photo)

Protection 

Four draws, a few slings, and a light rack. (bd #.2-#.5 and a #2 are useful)


Photos of Unknown Slab/Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Me milking a no-hands rest on the unknown slab/crack/flake route. Sweet!
Me milking a no-hands rest on the unknown slab/cra...

Comments on Unknown Slab/Crack Add Comment
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By grk10vq
Administrator
Jul 2, 2008

Its most likely best to access this from part-time crack as its a more direct line. Use long runners for the first two bolts if you climb this from the alcove to reduce drag.
By Shaun Greene
From: www.UtahShaun.com
Nov 16, 2008

Really fun climb with a wide variety of techniques. There is a really nice rest at the top of the finger crack in the chimney sort of thing. As with any new routes, Watch the rock on the upper part of this route. It is cleaning up day by day but there is some really loose and very large rock just waiting to come off. Pulled off a 15" by 15" piece the other day. Pretty glad I was wearing my helmet that day...
By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Nov 22, 2008

Yeah, like grk10vq, I accessed this from Part Time Crack and I quite enjoyed it. I'd say it was more like 5.9, though.
By Joseph Lascurain
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Oct 18, 2012

Ugh I got into the finger crack after not knowing which way to go on Blue Collar Crack. The crack was good but when I got through it the traverse moves were covered in wasps that didn't want to move. Being slightly allergic I decided to go up and over the top of the traverse moves. I pulled through on a large block and pushed through to the anchors on the slab below Red Neck Crack. DON'T DO IT THIS WAY. The rock quality was fairly poor and there is 6 inch deep guano in the crack next to you. It sucked.