Unknown Slab to Arete  5.8

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Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 100 feet Consensus:  5.8+ [details] FA:  energized bolter(s) Submitted By:  Leo Paik on Oct 8, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Halfway up the climb with unclipped first bolts.

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Description 

This is a 1-2 pitch line that starts up a mini-buttress just left of a tree.

Start up a short slab with your right fingers in a good crack past 3 closely spaced bolts. Note, the 3rd bolt can pin the rope a bit as you climb above. Ascend the short, right-facing dihedral, (optional cam) or force the line a couple feet right on face holds. Surmount the bulge, move up to the 2 bolt anchor. You can belay or continue up past 5 more bolts on easy, blocky terrain along an arete of sorts to another 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks.

Note on P2, there is a weird variation that can go right from the 2nd bolt, clipping an additional 3 more bolts in 10 feet and popping over a roof to clip another bolt or two, 5.8. It will add rope drag and may not be worth it. Bring more QDs with longer slings if you do this variation.

The first 15 feet warrant a star, but the upper bit may detract from this star.

Location 

This starts up a mini-buttress just left of a tree just right of the start for Lichenthorpe.

Protection 

11 bolts & small cam (perhaps a red Alien or #0.5 Camalot) if done in 1 pitch.