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Sister Superior Group
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Unknown Sister 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b C1

Type: Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 90'
FA: Larry Hamilton and Tom Ruwitch, April 1972
Page Views: 901
Submitted By: L. Hamilton on Jan 1, 2005
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Tom Ruwitch rappels the south side of Unknown Sist...

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"Unknown Sister" is the name Desert Rock III gives to this slender tower, the most distinctive on the ridge north of Sister Superior. Although Bjornstad's guide credits the first ascent to "Harvey T. Carter, 1960s," this route and probably the tower were first climbed by Larry Hamilton and Tom Ruwitch in April, 1972. Seepubpages.unh.edu/~lch/climb_33.htmfor a few photos from their ascent.

The route ascends an obvious splitter crack that widens from thin to five inches, on the west side of the tower. One bolt gains the base of the crack. Aid the crack until free climbing feels right. Bolt anchors, possibly old ones, should be found on the thin summit.


One bolt, thin to 5" crack; bolt anchors on summit.

Photos of Unknown Sister Slideshow Add Photo
Larry Hamilton on the summit of Unknown Sister, April 1972.  Photo by Tom Ruwitch.
Larry Hamilton on the summit of Unknown Sister, Ap...
Sister Superior group from the east.  Unknown Sister is the distinctive tower at right.  Larry Hamilton photo.
Sister Superior group from the east. Unknown Sist...
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By -mn
May 1, 2007

Climbed this clean last week. It was definitely harder than C1. Finally got a baby angle to stick in the pin scar after the bolt. After that hooks and sketchy small stoppers before the crack opened up. Also getting to the bolt on tiny stoppers was exciting - decking potential here I thought.I had a skeleton rack so hb offsets,another baby angle for an empty hole (or hook it),and some bigger saw offs would come in handy.A fun little tower though. Judging from the webbing on top I'm guessing very few ascents - less than 5 ??

By L. Hamilton
May 7, 2008

Sounds like clean aid is trickier than the old days -- I just hammered pins and called it A1. We only drilled once, though, probably a 1/4" Star dryvin, to reach the main crack. Then a couple more good Star bolts for anchors on the summit, so if there are more holes than those three, they are retro. It's a cool little summit.