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 ADVANCED
Upper Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Battle of the Bulge T,S 
Prissy Prancin' T 
Streakers T,S 
Tetherly Designs T,S 
Tower Dogs T,S 
Valley Boys T 

Battle of the Bulge 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: John Garlough (Chinos)
Page Views: 302
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Oct 25, 2013

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Another shot of Battle of the Bulge.

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the second bolted line from the right at the Upper Wall of the Real Hidden Valley. It is a good route, but those under 5'10" may find avoiding the initial roof to be more enjoyable.

A stick clip may be useful for the 1st bolt. Pull over the initial roof (crux) to the right of the 1st bolt. Taller folks may find the pull easier. You can get yellow and orange TCUs in a horizontal. Drift right getting a good flake to the right of the 2nd bolt. Find curiously good holds that keep appearing to finish at the bolt anchor.

The crux is somewhat reminiscent of the cruxes of Rush Hour and Animal Riots Activist.

Note, a shorter climber may find it better to traverse in from the left after clipping the 1st bolt for Tetherly Designs.

The rating I gave may reflect the left shoulder discomfort I've had of late.

Location 

This is the 2nd bolted line from the right at the crag.

Protection 

3 bolts, yellow and orange TCUs, 2 bolt anchor with links and biners.


Photos of Battle of the Bulge Slideshow Add Photo
Right bolt & gear routes.
Right bolt & gear routes.
Dave pulls aboard at the initial roof.
Dave pulls aboard at the initial roof.
Jonathan Garlough pulling through the crux roof on...
Jonathan Garlough pulling through the crux roof on...
The first bolt and the crux area.
BETA PHOTO: The first bolt and the crux area.

Comments on Battle of the Bulge Add Comment
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By chinos
Dec 13, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Correct. Jonathan Garlough is MP user Chinos.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
May 14, 2014
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The roof at the first bolt is certainly the crux. The route is easier above, yet still difficult and holds do "appear" when you really want them.