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Upper Wall
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Battle of the Bulge 
Prissy Prancin' 
Streakers 
Tetherly Designs 
Tower Dogs 
Valley Boys 

Battle of the Bulge 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: John Garlough (Chinos)
Page Views: 197
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Oct 25, 2013
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Jonathan Garlough pulling through the crux roof on...

Description 

This is the second bolted line from the right at the Upper Wall of the Real Hidden Valley. It is a good route, but those under 5'10" may find avoiding the initial roof to be more enjoyable.

A stick clip may be useful for the 1st bolt. Pull over the initial roof (crux) to the right of the 1st bolt. Taller folks may find the pull easier. You can get yellow and orange TCUs in a horizontal. Drift right getting a good flake to the right of the 2nd bolt. Find curiously good holds that keep appearing to finish at the bolt anchor.

The crux is somewhat reminiscent of the cruxes of Rush Hour and Animal Riots Activist.

Note, a shorter climber may find it better to traverse in from the left after clipping the 1st bolt for Tetherly Designs.

The rating I gave may reflect the left shoulder discomfort I've had of late.


Location 

This is the 2nd bolted line from the right at the crag.


Protection 

3 bolts, yellow and orange TCUs, 2 bolt anchor with links and biners.



Photos of Battle of the Bulge Slideshow Add Photo
Dave pulls aboard at the initial roof.
Dave pulls aboard at the initial roof.
Right bolt & gear routes.
Right bolt & gear routes.
Another shot of Battle of the Bulge.
Another shot of Battle of the Bulge.
Comments on Battle of the Bulge Add Comment
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By chinos
Dec 13, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Correct. Jonathan Garlough is MP user Chinos.