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The Sheepshead
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Absinthe of Mallet T 
Barnyard Wall 1 S 
Barnyard Wall 2 T,S 
Climb Too Tough To Die, The T,S 
Ewephoria T,S 
Get The Flock Out Of Here T 
Great second pitch. S 
Greedy Little Varmint T 
Ides of Middlemarch T 
Mad Cow Disease T,S 
Peacemaker, The S 
Stampede S 
Tombstone Stripper, The T,S 
Unknown (begins 50' left of The Climb Too Tough to Die) T,S 
Unknown (corner 15' left of Peacemaker) T,S 
Unknown (right of stampede) T 
Unknown (Right of The Peacemaker) S 

Unknown (right of stampede) 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 600', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: SA?
Page Views: 3,952
Submitted By: Geir on Apr 13, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Geir on the fifth pitch. Shawn, Geir, and I had a...

Description 

This climb has a wide variety of climbing, including chimney, crack, face, and slab, making it interesting and challenging at the grade.

A topo for this is available at toofasttopos.com/free/
Pitch 1 (50 feet, 5.8) -- climb up past two bolts and a few traditional placements to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 (120 feet, 5.10a) -- make a hard move to the right, clipping a bolt. Then climb up past one more bolt to a nice crack. Continue up the crack, staying to your left at a bulge, where the crack widens to a short chimney. At the top of the chimney bear right and climb up past a few more bolts to the anchor.

Pitch 3 (100 feet, 5.9) -- climb up on a slightly run-out, but easy terrain to a series of bolts. Continue along the bolts until the climb bears left to a sloping ledge with a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 4 (140 feet, hard 5.9) -- climb up and right past bolts and interesting face climbing. After about 5 bolts, the climbing eases off a bit to lower angle climbing. Pass over a diagonal crack which takes some gear and continue up to a nice ledge with a two bolt anchor and rap rings. Note that this anchor is one of the rappel stations for the descent.

Pitch 5 (100 feet, 5.9) -- climb up past two bolts and into a chimney. The chimney narrows to offwidth as you climb higher and face holds appear on your left. Move on to the face and continue up to a two bolt anchor with rap rings.

Descent:
-From the end of pitch 5, rappel 100' to the anchor for pitch 4.
-From the pitch 4 anchor, rappel straight down about 80' to an anchor on your right.
-Rappel from this anchor 50' to a large ledge with vegetation.
-Scramble down and climber's left about 30' to a small flat area by a large tree. Hidden about 10' to climber's left is a rappel anchor on a mildly exposed slab.
-From this anchor, rappel 95' straight down to the steep gully, where you will find yet another anchor.
-From here, rappel down the gully about 70 feet. Scramble to your packs.

  • While the descent can be done with a single 60 meter rope, it is advised that you use two ropes for this climb in case retreat is necessary before finishing pitch 4.

Location 

Approach: while walking up the hill toward Sheepshead, keep an eye out for a cairn marking a trail heading to the right. After a minute, the trail deposits you into a wash which heads up toward the right side of Sheepshead. Continue up the wash until you are between Sheepshead and Carnivore Pinnacle (the next formation to the right). You will see the bolts for the beginning of Stampede on your left. Continue up 50 feet or so to a large dead tree. The route starts in a gully to the left of this tree.

Protection 

Gear and bolts, approximately 50% bolt protected. All anchors are bolted.


Photos of Unknown (right of stampede) Slideshow Add Photo
Greg on the last pitch
Greg on the last pitch
Shirley starting up the Unnamed route's P2.  A stellar pitch.
Shirley starting up the Unnamed route's P2. A ste...
Greg out of the wide and on the final face moves of the last pitch.
Greg out of the wide and on the final face moves o...
Greg on the full value second pitch.  Climbed in true sport style : )
Greg on the full value second pitch. Climbed in t...
Greg at the last bolt on our version of pitch 1
Greg at the last bolt on our version of pitch 1
Pulling into the offwidth.
Pulling into the offwidth.
Pulling gear.
Pulling gear.
Susan on the awkward 5.9 of our 3rd pitch.  (4th on the topo)
Susan on the awkward 5.9 of our 3rd pitch. (4th o...
Amy coming up to the offwidth on the last pitch.
Amy coming up to the offwidth on the last pitch.
Looking up pitch 1. Pitch 2 follows the crack up and right of Mark.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up pitch 1. Pitch 2 follows the crack up a...
Amy just getting ready to start pitch 2. She was the only one not to fall getting into the crack.
Amy just getting ready to start pitch 2. She was t...
Slabby moves before the anchor on our pitch 2  (3 on the topo)
Slabby moves before the anchor on our pitch 2 (3 ...
Almost to the top of the second pitch.
Almost to the top of the second pitch.
laurel leads third pitch
laurel leads third pitch
Does this thing ever end!?
Does this thing ever end!?
Some of the second pitch variety.
Some of the second pitch variety.
Finally get to pull out of this.
Finally get to pull out of this.
Whew! Made it out.
Whew! Made it out.
Cleaning gear on the second pitch
Cleaning gear on the second pitch
Susan and Greg on the 1st pitch. (2nd pitch if you do not link 1 & 2)
Susan and Greg on the 1st pitch. (2nd pitch if you...
Top of the fourth pitch. Another fun pitch, awkward start to thin slab finish.
Top of the fourth pitch. Another fun pitch, awkwar...

Comments on Unknown (right of stampede) Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 7, 2012
By Laurel
From: Phoenix
Apr 29, 2008

This is a great route and the second pitch is interesting as do not be decieved and try the right side of the bulging rock. Lots of differnt stuff. On the rap look closely to climbers left for the third and fourth set of hangers (more like 20 feet and not 10ft
By Mike Diesen
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
May 5, 2008

A great route with a wide variety of climbing. 16 draws, a couple slings for chicken heads on the last pitch and a full set of cams (couple small but mostly medium to large) is all that is needed.
By Meghan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Jul 1, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great route!! Sustained and diverse 5.9. Every pitch is different and none are much easier than 9.
By Meghan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Jan 4, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I climbed this again yesterday and think it's actually harder than I originally thought. On climbing it again, I think it has a few .10a moves and a lot of sustained 5.9. Really good route.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 4, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Meghan, it feels like 10a because it is. A budding 5.9 leader would likely have some serious trouble on that route!

Fun line still exfoliating but that's to be expected.

We ran pitch 1 & 2 together with a 70' cord. Like others have mentioned the 1/2 pitch has a wide variety of climbing. Bring your skills ladies and gentlemen!

We did it with (2) teams of two in 4 pitches. Russ & SteelMonkey leading pitches 1/2 & 4. Felicia and I taking the middle blocks.

Good climbing and a nice addition to the area. The last of the winter sun clearing the belay just around 1pm - the route stays in the sun for the afternoon.

Enjoy!
By Meghan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Jan 4, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Thanks for the support on the .10a business. I thought it worthwhile to post so that the "budding 5.9 climber" wouldn't get on the route without any warning that it's a little stiff. We also ran the first two pitches together and did it in 4 using a 70m. Might be able to do it that way with a 60m. Happy climbing!! :-)
By Meghan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Jan 5, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Yes, that was me... Good meeting you! I loved your crag dog!! He hung out with us while we ate, drank, and climbed Sheep Thrills. :-)
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Jan 8, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Pretty good route. Not great, but better than good. 2.5 stars. Running pitch 1 and 2 together gives you a pretty good value outing. It may not be the best way to do it, but the first pitch is so short and goes so quickly, that it feels like more of an approach pitch than actual climbing. YMMV.

The raps are pretty straightforward. We rapped off the top of the route to the big ledge with the tree. Using two ropes (60m or longer) you can do a giant rap from here all the way into the gully. Scramble down the gully for maybe 40 yards and you will see some bolts on the right wall. Single rope rap these and you are back at your packs and the start of the route. Be careful as your rope might try to get stuck in some mid-way-down bushes when pulling down the monster rap.

A short slide show from the route can be found here
(Do a mouseover for captions on the "i" and nav controls on the bottom of the pics.)
By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Jan 12, 2009

If you're comfortable spacing your placements a bit on moderate cracks, a single set of cams from .5 to 3 BD size is sufficient. A #4 could be placed in three spots, but other stuff will go in a few feet above or below in each of these spots. Great second pitch!
By rpc
Jan 26, 2009

Great modern route! Pitch 2 is a real gem (slab, hand crack, chimney, finger crack, steep face!) but pitches 4 & 5 were also very cool we thought. Just to echo what others said, climbing felt hard for 5.9 (compared to Too Tough... which we did the day before & Absinthe IMHO). Thanks to Geir for another great topo.
By Larry
From: SoAZ
Jan 28, 2009

Hard for a 5.9.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Jan 30, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

What size pro do you need for the offwidth on the last pitch?

Can you walk it or do you need more than one piece in that range?
By rpc
Jan 30, 2009

I might have placed a #4 C4 but I think that was mostly because I wanted to unload it. I THINK you could get away with up to blue Camalot as the OW constricts in the back & I recall placing couple of nuts actually.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Feb 23, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

If anybody finds a pack-in-pocket Marmot windbreaker in the chimney on the last pitch (forgot to pick it up on the rap) and wishes to return it, please contact me through the e-mail here on MP or at (520) 577-5520

Thanks much
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Feb 23, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Definitely worth it to bring two #4s on the second pitch. What a thrash on the last pitch, I guess having a bunch of gear around your waist is not a good thing in that kind of situation.

On the second-to-last rappel, a 70m may reach the next anchors, otherwise a 60m just ( make sure you have the midpoint) reaches a little ledge where you can step off into the gully and then scramble to the last anchors.

Fun route!
By Mike McL
From: South Lake Tahoe, CA
Jul 25, 2009

Pitch 2 is great. Slab, hand crack, chimney, and interesting face climbing.
By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Jan 7, 2010

This climb is really varied, with consistent climbing throughout. P2 is one of better pitches I've done in a while - slab to jamming to lb to chimney to fingers to steep face! (it links with P1 just barely with a 60m line)

Some spots are a little grainy/flaky, especially near the top of P3/start of P4.

I brought a #4 but didn't need it at all. Also, if you have 2 ropes, I would suggest going directly from the anchors at the top of P4 to the brushy ledge in one go, rather than deal with the intermediate hanging belay.
By TylerW
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 11, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

What an awesome climb. a little grainy near the top. solid 5.9+ face, crack, chimney, slab, you name it.

Some photos from a recent trip (pics from the climb are at the end of the album): picasaweb.google.com/tyler.wil...

oh, and the chimneys/OWs weren't that bad. A grunt, but not the crux.
By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 12, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

After putting it off as long as possible, I took my first trad fall on pitch 2 of this climb. Amazingly the system works -- the piece held!

Returned a week later and reworked pitch 2 -- what an amazing and engaging 120ft. I left two carabiners on the anchors of pitch 2 for a double rope rappel.
By Justin York
From: Phoenix, AZ
May 23, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

What a great route! P2 is great, but don't forget about the bolted pitches 3 and 4 - they had some really fun moves at their cruxes. P5 was a grunt through the offwidth but it's a short section before pulling onto the easy face. Brought a #4 camalot but only used it once on the whole climb, and could have easily placed something smaller above or below it.

As for the descent, BEWARE that the last rap station in the gully is now covered by a huge dead tree. Looks like it's freshly fallen, with branches and rocks everywhere. The rap station is still accessible, just hard to see from above and the ropes get all tangled in the branches. For the last rap, we descended into the "hole" between the gully and a giant boulder. Rope pulled OK from there. Then scrambled down to packs.
By Tim Hadfield
From: Steamboat Springs, Co
Jan 12, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Climbed this a few days ago, excellent route! Lots of variety and fairly sustained climbing. I would agree with everyone, this climbs more like a 5.10. I felt like the slab/face sections were on par with Peacemaker. Could have been that the second pitch off-width/chimney climbing kind of gassed me!
By Jimbo
Mar 14, 2012

Second pitch is as good as any pitch on Sheepshead. The rest of the route was worth doing once. We never placed any gear bigger than a yellow camalot. One or two number fours would be silly and very much in the way.

Beta spoiler: Climb the off width on pitch 5 facing left. This allows full use of good foot holds on the left wall and makes it easier to place gear deep in the crack with your right hand.

No biners on the top of pitch two. People are so low rent. Do you really need a couple of old biners that badly!

We spent 5 minutes unrapping our rope from the big downed tree after the rope stacked itself into the branches.
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Dec 7, 2012

Tough route for this gunks climber. So much slab, so few roofs! Very enjoyable, each pitch different and sustained.