This would probably fall under #3 for the Punchbowl area. Probably one of the best sport climbs in the universe. Crux is linking the moves on the roof and holding it together enough to pull around onto the face for more great technical climbing. I'm surprised this hasn't been sent yet, and the line is beautiful and inspiring in the midst of such an enchanted setting. Very intimidating as well. It may be harder than 13...
Upon entering The Punchbowl, skirt along the bottom rim to the right until it goes uphill again for 30 feet or so. Rather than continuing uphill, cut back towards the cave and the first few bolts are the start of this gorgeous line.
9 bolts I believe. One could use a large cam between the 8th and 9th as it is pretty run out (about 15-20 feet I believe) though with 5.10 climbing. If you've made it that far, you shouldn't have much to worry about.
Kevin working up the Right Arch.
From: Morrison, CO
Aug 10, 2009
According to the 2008 guide from Wolverine Publishing, this line has been sent, and it's 13+.
Jun 17, 2012
rating: 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Wondering if anyone who has sent this route can give me some clarity?
While it is hella fun (that runout at the end is fairly easy climbing, but def. exciting), there are two routes on the right arch of the cave . . . .
According to the guidebook, the one that goes under the arch (where the picture here is taken) is a 5.13c bolted by Tommy Caldwell. It felt way closer to the low end of 13, though. There is another route that climbs on the vertical side of the arch that also looks hard - I believe that one was the open project, and the line pictured here is an older route.
Clarification? Anyone know?
Sep 2, 2013
I would agree with mkclimb. This is a great climb and should get more traffic but the grade is closer to 12d/13a. The climb to the right looks just as good but harder.
From: edwards, co
Oct 20, 2013
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Yeah, the left route on right side of the cave is in the 12d/13a area, but the route just to the right of it is real hard down low, like double digit boulder problem hard, but the headwall is some of the best rock in the canyon!
|By chris deulen|
From: Merriam, Kansas
Feb 12, 2014
Anybody got a name?