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Oh My Heck 
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Particulate Matter 
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Unknown 5.8 
Unknown Reality 
Volcanic Therapy 

Unknown Reality 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 474
Submitted By: Ryan Brough on Jan 28, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Unknown Reality is the wider crack on the far righ...
Closed March 15 through June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Unknown Reality starts out in a wide, flaring corner with rounded edges. A small roof complicates things at this cruxy start. You have several options, all of which are technical (or crazy), barn door to a lieback stance, chickenwing the offwidth to some big fist jams (my fists are too small) or pull over the small roof on bad crimps just to the right before swinging back into the crack. After the crux, there is significantly easier climbing in the crack with ample stemming opportunities. The top third is the easiest part of all, weighing in at a mere 5.7. The guidebook beta I had gave this a 5.9 rating (dr.topo), so it is possible that there is a trick to this route (see various rants on ratings in forum discussions). IMHO, there are far better routes to try at this area. On a more positve note, this would be a fun alternative start to Solar Eclipse.


Location 

Crack to the immediate right of Solar Eclipse.


Protection 

#3 and #4 camalot (or equivalent) required to protect initial crux moves. Standard rack with emhapsis on medium gears sews up what remains. Use two anchor bolts from Solar Eclipse for descent.



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By steven sadler
From: SLC, UT
Feb 14, 2011

did this climb on feb 12, i thought it was really good. Be sure to get those hands in deep though. i placed a #2, 3, and 4 camalot but a .75 or .5 would fit in the top but it's not really necessary.