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The Muttonhead
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Unknown (L side of SW face) S 
Unknown (R side of SW face) S 
unknown (se arete) S 

Unknown (R side of SW face) 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 285'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 868
Submitted By: Geir on Nov 7, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Alex firing the last of the slab moves before the ...


Description: A pretty neat multi-pitch bolted line.

Pitch 1 (5.9, 95'): Straightforward slab and face climbing along bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 (5.10+, 100'): The crux pitch. Move to a hole on the right, pull a tricky bulge (10+) and make technical moves past the next two bolts (10+). The climbing quickly becomes easier and more run out.

Pitch 3 (5.10, 90'): This is the nicest pitch on the route. Climb difficult slab (5.10) up and left from the anchor. The climb sweeps back to the right to a steep section with a few juggy moves over a bulge (5.9).

Descent: Rappel the route.

A topo for this route can be downloaded from


Location: Far right side of the Southwest face of Muttonhead. Starts to the right of an arch about 45 feet off the ground.



Photos of Unknown (R side of SW face) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading pitch 2....harder than it looks
Leading pitch 2....harder than it looks
Rock Climbing Photo: Ape index a-go-go!
Ape index a-go-go!
Rock Climbing Photo: We will now witness girl beta ...
We will now witness girl beta ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Daryl gets us going  January 2010
Daryl gets us going January 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: hmm mm hmm... hmm mm hmm...
Rock Climbing Photo: This part looks more casual when he does it someho...
This part looks more casual when he does it someho...
Rock Climbing Photo: ...vs boy beta
...vs boy beta
Rock Climbing Photo: Alex transitioning into the Nordic ox we know him ...
Alex transitioning into the Nordic ox we know him ...

Comments on Unknown (R side of SW face) Add Comment
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By Aerili
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 15, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

I am 99% certain I climbed this route last winter. I thought it was a high quality route with really great sections on all pitches, but the grade is no more than 10b/c imo. (I err more toward the 10b end, although 10c is possible.)

5.9 rating for p1 I agree with.

10b/c for p2.

10a/b for p3.

I led p2 and onsighted it; I have never onsighted 11- sport. Also, for me, finding my way to get over the bulge above the giant hole was the crux (somewhat reach dependent, so I had to do it in a completely different way than my male partners). The move above it to the next bolt was also cruxy, but easier for me than the bulge move off the belay.

I did not lead p3, but I thought the slab was definitely far easier than, say, the 10c slab on a route like Warpaint.

I have many pics of this route; eventually I will post some. And I look forward to climbing it again one day!
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Nov 22, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Agreed Aerili.. unless something broke off on p2 since you and i did it, it's no more than 10a/b in my humble opinion. To use a contrast, it's milder than the start of p2 on Absinthe. That being said, good onsight, gf!! ;) I would go with p1:9, p2:10a/b, p3:9. Fun route.
By Aerili
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 26, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Damn, Daryl, you sandbagger! ;) I definitely think p2 is harder than 10a, and I think p3 is probably around 10a on the slab?? Argh, can't remember the fine details on that last one!

I don't think p2 was easier than Absinthe's pitch 2, just different (both reachy!). Although at least this one does not have your gear in your handhold, haaa!
By lou
Dec 26, 2010

I climbed this wonderful outing last winter with Bret. I got lucky n onsighted the first two pitches. Since its not named... we coined it "snowball"..... it had snowed the day before n the hike in as well as the less vertical faces had snow clingin about. It was a bluebird day..... as we climbed snow chunks fell from above an smashed here n there. I stopped calling rock.. and started yellin snowballs.
IMHO.. the first pitch is 9... second is 10d.. an third is 10a....
rap with one sixty..

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