Tour Buses Welcome 5.10a/b
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| Type: | Sport, 4 pitches, 320 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | SA and ? |
| Submitted By: | Geir on Oct 4, 2009 |
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Jeff M. on 2nd pitch. Very nice position!
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Description This is a fun bolted line to the right of Mystery of the Desert. The climbing is mostly slab and a few tricky stemming face moves.
Pitch 1 (5.9, 70')- Easy slab climbing straight up the bolts to the two bolt anchor. The crux is just after the first bolt.
Pitch 2 (5.10a, 80')- Follow the bolt line up and right from the anchor. The crux involves interesting face and stem moves to negotiate an angled bulge. Staying low when traversing to this bulge helps, as well as utilizing small holds to the right of the bulge. Continue up and left to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 3 (5.10a/b, 90') - climb up and right following more bolts. Enter a short oval dish-shaped feature and figure out the clever stemming moves. Exit this feature and stay right of the bolt line as you climb to another two bolt anchor.
Pitch 4 (5.6R, 85') - follow the jagged arete to up and slightly left to a tree at the summit. You will find a two bolt anchor directly underneath it. The climbing is easy but protection is a bit scarce in the beginning of the pitch.
Descend by rapping the route.
A topo for this route can be downloaded from www.geir.com/muttonhead%20w.pdf
Location Start on bolts approx 5' right of Mystery of the Desert.
Protection All bolts except for the final pitch. A small rack of cams and a single set of stoppers is easily sufficient to protect the final pitch.
Emily putting up pitch one.
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Well past the crux, sustained moderate slab finish...
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For slab lovers, this route will satisfy (upper se...
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BETA PHOTO: Route starts just right of this trunk.
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BETA PHOTO: P1.
This route needs a name!
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| Comments on Tour Buses Welcome |
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By dolemike
Oct 11, 2009
| Did the 1st two pitches after climbing mystery of the desert. Thought the first was a little easier than 5.9 and found the second to be a bit of a sandbag at 10a. The second pitch, though fairly short, is pretty stellar. |
By Stu Ritchie
From: Denver
Feb 18, 2010
| A very worthwhile route! 2nd pitch is certainly no easier than 10a. The 3rd is significantly harder and can be linked with the 4th for an excellent 3 pitch outing. Descent is straight down the route with a single 60 meter rope. |
By Steve Pulver
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 16, 2010
| Is this the route that has the corner on the 3rd pitch? I can't figure out which one that is, from these route descriptions. I think the route was called 'Tour busses welcome"? |
By Christian
From: Tucson, Az
Dec 19, 2010
rating: 5.10b
| Crux on the third pitch is tricky tricky..pretty solid 10 at least and could be made much harder if you do it wrong like I did lol
Probably hasn't seen too much traffic so that little crunching noise you hear sometimes as you're smearing down on the footholds adds to the fun.. |
By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Jan 28, 2013
rating: 5.10
| Fun bolted multi-pitch sport for the first three pitches. Third pitch crux seemed tricky, but it could have been the two jackets I was wearing - brr! |
By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
May 8, 2013
rating: 5.10a
| This route is called "Tour Buses Welcome" and the FA is Scott Ayers. |
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
May 8, 2013
| And ... updated. |
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