This route is a reasonably good Donelly climb and seems to be free more often than others. It is just as long and good as 'Generic Crack,' but less generic. The size changes throughout and the angle weaves back and forward, throug a few hanging corners and flaring pods.
Fing a long climb left of the ever-popular Chocolate corner area- continue left past Mr Peanut and toward Generic Crack to near the bolted arete of Let Er Buck. Just right of there (if memory serves- I just did it again on Easter of 04) is a splitter off of the ground with rounded edges. About 10M up is the first pod, which is also the crux.
A rack of cams should include a few down to an inch, with at least two each #2 and #3.5 and probably three each #2.5 and #3. That should do well, but if you love plugging tons of gear, consider taking more. Take a few slings too, as the pods protect deep in back.
A 70M rope will get you down, a 60 won't without trickery.
A rack of cams from from 1"-3.5" Heavy on the 2-3". Plus one #4 camalot if convienient.
BETA PHOTO: Shows location, just to the right of the OW corner...
|By Danny Inman|
Nov 3, 2006
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Good route. Judging from the sand this thing does not get climbed nearly as often as its neighbors.
|By Jay Samuelson|
From: Denver CO
Mar 30, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
For clarification, this route is to the right of generic crack if your looking at the wall, not to the left. It's just right of Binou's Crack and the bolted arete, the obvious hand crack with a large pod about 15 feet off the ground. Also, we didn't have trouble lowering off of a 60m, but it was an extremely stretchy rope. knot your ends and be conscious of the length.
This was one of my favorite routes we did at the creek, I thought the climbing was a lot of fun and much trickier than a lot of the cracks. The jams were deep in the crack and it was fun trying to figure out how to keep from getting sucked into this bad boy. It's definitely one you can love to hate, and full value at nearly 100'.
|By ben graham|
From: Boulder/Denver CO
Oct 10, 2009
Wear a long sleave shirt and pants as this crack eats up elbow and knee skin; i learned this the hard way.
From: Durango, CO
Oct 31, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
This is a good quality climb. A 60 meter rope works with no trickery. It should be sorted between 5.10 Corner and Mr. Peanut. I used camalots: 1 #5, 4-5 #2, 2 #3, and 2 yellow aliens. Webbing anchor on SMC hangers.