An east-facing wall in a lovely location on the south side of the canyon, above and west of Black Magic. The wall is a good summer afternoon crag as all but two routes are in the shade all afternoon and the location is quite pleasant.
There are two 5.10 routes, both stemming corner routes; the rest of the twelve routes are 5.12, most face and arete routes with a roof or two thrown in.
This link shows an oblique, aerial view (the crag is in the center of the photo).
The next 3 routes share the first five bolts: 5. Substance .12b 6. Unknown Pleasures .12a/b 7. Closer .12b
On north-facing wall around outside corner: 8. DK .11a 9. DK unfinished (up black streak) 10. 12 (Bad bolts) 11. DK .11+ 12. DK .11- 13. DK .10d
In corner between north-facing and east facing wall: 14. DK .8
On east-facing wall past inside corner: 15. Touch of Grey .12a 16. DK Unfinished 17. Oni .11c (with 2nd pitch above and left) 18. DK Unfinished 19. DK Unfinished
Around the buttress on the west side: 20. Osmosis .12a 21. Active Transport .12a/b
Park at a small pullout (click for Google Street View) almost exactly .5 miles from the National Monument visitors' center (the pullout is the first on the right past the parking for Beer Can Alley.
A bit downstream (100' or so) is a log spanning the river (as of May 2012). Cross here and follow a faint trail up and right across talus, heading for the right side of the obvious buttress up and slightly right of where you crossed. After a short while you will come to the obvious Black Magic. Continue past the cave and take the upper of the two trails that leave the cave area and head west.
Follow the trail up a talus slope and you will be deposited at the left side crag base.
A fine line on less-than-fine rock for part of the way, with stellar stone from about halfway on.The line starts by curving to the left, apparently to avoid even poorer rock. At the third bolt the line heads more or less straight up for several bolts, but eventually trends back to the right. The whole line is a shallow C-shape.There is a good rest on the route but you'll have to be willing to find it. Otherwise, the sections before and after the rest are fairly sustained, with only a few shake-o...[more]Browse More Classics in UT