Unknown Pleasures  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Lat, Long:  40.4445, -111.6966 Map Page Views:  650. Good page?    Administrators:  Kristine Hoffman, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Perin Blanchard on May 22, 2012 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>> See the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest Service fee page for more information. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

The view of American Fork Canyon from Unknown Plea...

Description 

An east-facing wall in a lovely location on the south side of the canyon, above and west of Black Magic. The wall is a good summer afternoon crag as all but two routes are in the shade all afternoon and the location is quite pleasant.

There are two 5.10 routes, both stemming corner routes; the rest of the twelve routes are 5.12, most face and arete routes with a roof or two thrown in.

This link shows an oblique, aerial view (the crag is in the center of the photo).

Routes left to right:

1. Leapin' Lizards .10b
2. Shadowplay .12d (shares first bolt with Leapin' Lizards)
3. Persona Non Grata .10c
4. Sharkfighter .12b

The next 3 routes share the first five bolts:
5. Substance .12b
6. Unknown Pleasures .12a/b
7. Closer .12b

On north-facing wall around outside corner:
8. Unknown

On east-facing wall past inside corner:
9. Touch of Grey .12a
10. Unknown

Around the buttress on the west side:
11. Osmosis .12a
12. Active Transport .12a/b

Getting There 

Park at a small pullout (click for Google Street View) almost exactly .5 miles from the National Monument visitors' center (the pullout is the first on the right past the parking for Beer Can Alley.

A bit downstream (100' or so) is a log spanning the river (as of May 2012). Cross here and follow a faint trail up and right across talus, heading for the right side of the obvious buttress up and slightly right of where you crossed. After a short while you will come to the obvious Black Magic. Continue past the cave and take the upper of the two trails that leave the cave area and head west.

Follow the trail up a talus slope and you will be deposited at the left side crag base.

The Classics

Featured Route For Unknown Pleasures

Touch of Grey 5.12a  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Unknown Pleasures

A fine line on less-than-fine rock for part of the way, with stellar stone from about halfway on.The line starts by curving to the left, apparently to avoid even poorer rock. At the third bolt the line heads more or less straight up for several bolts, but eventually trends back to the right. The whole line is a shallow C-shape.There is a good rest on the route but you'll have to be willing to find it. Otherwise, the sections before and after the rest are fairly sustained, with only a few shake-o...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT