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Unknown Pillar

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Unknown Pillar 


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Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, Euan Cameron, Adam Winters, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Russ Walling on Dec 2, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Tower overview of the North Face

Description 

This tower lies to the west and slightly south of Hillbilly Pillar about 150 yards. The routes (except for route A which is on the east face) are on the North face on some very suspect rock, but does have one excellent route on very good rock.

The entire crag is basically sport bolted, some routes with semi-high first bolts. 6 Quick draws will gain you the summit of every route except for the Crack (Route C) which apparently takes gear. MussyHooks or closed shuts at the top of each route. It is recommened you bring quick draws for the anchors if TR'ing the routes to reduce wear. Assuming this crag ever gets any play.


Getting There 

From Pauls Paradise, scramble up either to the right of Hillbilly Pillar and through a small canyon heading north-ish or walk around left of those formations and then cut north 150 yards past Hillbilly Pillar. Very short approach, like 5 minutes.


6 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',3],['5.8',3],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Unknown Pillar
Susan enjoying some stay-in-place rock

Route B 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Unknown Pillar
Route B: Best route on the crag on surprisingly good rock. Take the best portion of rock up the middle of the face. 6 bolts to Mussy Hooks....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Unknown Pillar Slideshow Add Photo
Approaching from the west.... unknown pillar in view on the right with Hillbilly pillar dead ahead.
Approaching from the west.... unknown pillar in vi...
Compass pointed to the base of "unknown pillar"
BETA PHOTO: Compass pointed to the base of "unknown pillar"
View of Hillbilly Pillar nearly just east of the base.  Two rope lengths?  You be the judge :)
View of Hillbilly Pillar nearly just east of the b...
GPS support
BETA PHOTO: GPS support
View of Unknown Pillar from Movie Road
BETA PHOTO: View of Unknown Pillar from Movie Road
Comments on Unknown Pillar Add Comment
Show which comments
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Dec 2, 2012

We asked around a bit including the GuideBookGuy™™ and nobody knew what this pillar was. Hard to believe, but true. If you have the info on this crag, please update the entry.

By JC w KC redux
May 28, 2013

I'm glad someone else posted that they couldn't find this crag. The directions are contradictory - one says north, the other south. We tried both sets of directions and there is nothing there. Burnt Penis is west and north of Hillbilly after an open area. The other pillars behind Paul's have no bolts. We even walked south and east(thinking maybe the directions were backwards) across another open area to a group of formations and found no bolts and no towers that looked like the pic. All the walls (no towers) further west (way more than 150 yards) have crack systems that slant up and left - nothing has cracks that go relatively straight or right as the pic shows. We felt like we were being PUNKED!

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
May 29, 2013

Finding a crag is an art. I'll GPS it next time I'm out that way. And Hillbilly Pillar is a full nine iron away from the base of this crag, so the 150 yds. is deadly accurate

The bigger question is why would you go there? The thing is running like 3 shitbombs and one so-so route. Even a seasoned choss king like myself was actually laughing at the bullshit I was climbing on.

By JC w KC redux
Aug 17, 2013

Russ - I agree - finding a crag is an art and all part of the adventure. As far as why we'd be going there - we were just looking for some more mods around that area after doing Yaum and Burnt Penis. You said you couldn't find it in your first comment and then you referred to climbing it in your second comment - hmmmm - you must have been stubborn like me and went back to look again - difference is - you found it! Where is it in relation to say the area between Hillbilly and Burnt Penis?
We aren't scared of choss either - seeing as our main crag is the Pinnacles - see our forum at Mud N Crud.
thanks,
JC

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Aug 17, 2013

You said you couldn't find it in your first comment and then you referred to climbing it in your second commentt

The disconnect on our back and forth is I posted the route info for the pillar, and then commented on the lack of info about the pillar, hoping someone could ID the thing. It is near impossible to find something you are not looking for, especially since it is not in the guide book. So we were never actually "looking" for it. We happened upon and climbed it, then put the pillar into the MP database, then asked if anyone knew what it was.

Easiest way to find it is tie two ropes together, clip one end to the first bolt on a Hillbilly Pillar route and then walk toward Whitney or whatever those mountains are. When the rope comes tight, you will probably be at the base of the thing ;)

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Sep 3, 2013

This mystery pillar is hardly worth a trip back but for Beta purposes I did just that in my flip-flops. The crag is nearly directly west of Hillbilly Pillar (see compass photo) and probably dead on for Russ' comment of a nine-iron away. The crag is quick and easy to find by staying on the road passing Hillbilly Parking lot on your left and the corridors or whatever that is on your right until you swing around heading south to a dead end parking area. From the parking area, take an established trail east three minutes & presto.... you're at the base!

By Bruce Willey
From: Bishop, CA
Oct 31, 2013

Found this pillar completely by accident (from the west) and found it surprisingly satisfying. Did all the routes aside from the Route A which looked absolutely chossy even for this choss queen. Route B is a Alobama Hills classic. Loved it. The pregnant wife even climbed it twice. But it should be noted that the moves getting to first or second bolts are way beyond the easy ratings as described here.

By JC w KC redux
Nov 25, 2013

Easiest way to find it is tie two ropes together, clip one end to the first bolt on a Hillbilly Pillar route and then walk toward Whitney or whatever those mountains are. When the rope comes tight, you will probably be at the base of the thing ;)

Too funny Russ - the sarcasm is not lost on me :)
I was just checking back to see if there were any additional posts before we head for the hills. Now I am going to have to go find this thing and do the climbs. I imagine we were looking right at it - or at the wrong side of it - now it's a quest! KC will probably make me go look for it again on my own - I can see her rolling her eyes already. Maybe we'll see you/meet you at the crags one of these days - thanks again for the laugh...sincerely - Colonel Bat Guano

Susan - thanks for all the beta - if i can't find it now i'm going to quit climbing :)

By JC w KC redux
Dec 6, 2013

Found it and climbed it - thanks to Russ and Susan. We just didn't go far enough or in quite the right direction on previous attempts.

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Dec 6, 2013

hahaha! Cool! Was it worth it?