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Unknown OW 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 121'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 560
Submitted By: carl bullock on Oct 28, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Oh dub


This unknown OW should be on the list of "must do" wide cracks in the creek! super splitter on black rock with crisp edges. my knee fit great most of the way. there is a small bulge 1/3 of the way up. the cruxes are the slight flare down low and when it pinches down to old 4 camalots up high. ends with hands and fingers! Awesome!


the route is 15-20 ft right of "electric". it is the splitter that makes you say "damn!"


old camalots .3,(2)2,3.5,(2-3)4, (at least! 3)4.5,
an old 5 will fit but not necessary.
new 6 will fit in if you jam it in or; go in up high.
2 new 1/2 inch bolts with chains that are under the small roof.
you need a seventy meter rope!

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By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Nov 30, 2012
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

This route is awesome, and may be one of the best unknown routes I've done in the creek.
I took (all BD's) 1 ea .3, #1, #2; (2)#4, (3)#4.5, (2)New #5's and (2)Old #5. I found the old(green) 5 to be key as a new 5 is tipped and #6 will not fit.