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Unknown name( 20 in 2nd edition) 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 527
Submitted By: Jeff Scheuerell on Nov 6, 2013

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Squeeze chimney

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


Scramble up to a big ledge then jam the clean hands corner that leads to a very short wide section. Pull the bulge(crux) above the wide on cupped hands and continue on cups into another OW slot with hands in the back and edges out left to the anchor. My 70 got me down no problem.

[editor's note - the following was originally posted by Tom T under the route name 'polaris']

Climb a short squeeze chimney to a large sandy ledge. After about 20 feet of perfect wide hands in a clean corner it's time to get busy. Grunt, cuss, and struggle your way through a slightly overhanging offwidth and deposit yourself into a tight squeeze chimney. This chimney provides an excellent no-hands rest and protects with a hand crack that is just within reach. Follow the obvious crack to two solid drilled angles that had brand new [yellow] slings in March 2006.


From the top of the approach trail head left. The route is approximately 100 feet left of Desert Shield.
Look for a 30 foot tall slab that leads up to an obvious right facing corner.


Mostly #2 and 3 Camalots with a couple of big pieces thrown in.

[Tom T's recommendation is Camelots: 2-#1's, 2-#2's, 4-#3's, 4-#4's (old or new, they both fit in various places)and a couple random pieces for the start. A 60m rope will barely get you to the ground with some very tame down-climbing. A stopper knot in the "belay" side would be prudent.]

Photos of Unknown name( 20 in 2nd edition) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: unknown name (20 in 2nd edition) (5.10) from the g...
unknown name (20 in 2nd edition) (5.10) from the g...
Rock Climbing Photo: Route #20, Desert Shield, and Polaris
BETA PHOTO: Route #20, Desert Shield, and Polaris

Comments on Unknown name( 20 in 2nd edition) Add Comment
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By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 7, 2013

I had posted this under Polaris in 2011 because one of Tom T's pics of this route was listed there. now I'm thinking that Polaris is a different route to the right of desert shield...

this one is located just left of desert shield. Great route, the old book says unnamed, ? for grade and maybe 100'. I recommend a 70m rope to belay from the ground. Also, I thought it would be #2s to the OW but it would have been better to have #3 camalots instead. Take 1 - 2 new #4 camalots and a #5 if you suck at OWs like me (plus some other sizes as stated on the description).

This is a really good route that should get traffic. Someone might want to replace the slings on those drilled angles though. I would have but didn't bring extra webbing to the crag this time.
By Devin Fin
Nov 8, 2013

the pic i posted Jan 2011 is polaris. it's a long route 2 ropes #3's #4,s 1#6 an Big Bro's . save some hand pieces for the top.. hope we can shift some picks an post the proper info for Polaris .... cheers DF
By slim
Jan 2, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

i moved Tom T's description from 'polaris' to this route to give some more info. in particular, i think his gear beta and the note about having a stopper knot with a 60m are pretty helpful.

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