|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Jeff Scheuerell on Nov 6, 2013|
|Comments on Unknown name( 20 in 2nd edition)||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 7, 2013
I had posted this under Polaris in 2011 because one of Tom T's pics of this route was listed there. now I'm thinking that Polaris is a different route to the right of desert shield...
this one is located just left of desert shield. Great route, the old book says unnamed, ? for grade and maybe 100'. I recommend a 70m rope to belay from the ground. Also, I thought it would be #2s to the OW but it would have been better to have #3 camalots instead. Take 1 - 2 new #4 camalots and a #5 if you suck at OWs like me (plus some other sizes as stated on the description).
This is a really good route that should get traffic. Someone might want to replace the slings on those drilled angles though. I would have but didn't bring extra webbing to the crag this time.
By Devin Fin
Nov 8, 2013
|the pic i posted Jan 2011 is polaris. it's a long route 2 ropes #3's #4,s 1#6 an Big Bro's . save some hand pieces for the top.. hope we can shift some picks an post the proper info for Polaris .... cheers DF|
Jan 2, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
|i moved Tom T's description from 'polaris' to this route to give some more info. in particular, i think his gear beta and the note about having a stopper knot with a 60m are pretty helpful.|