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Unknown Mixed Route aka The Green Gargoyle? T 
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Unknown Mixed Route aka The Green Gargoyle? 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Season: FacesS/SW
Page Views: 259
Submitted By: Tony B on May 2, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: The Green Gargoyle climbs 2 pitches to the top of ...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route could be a lot better if it were cleaned up. However, this side of the rock draws few climbers, and it is unlikely to clean up from traffic - something more deliberate would be required... if you do it, please take a brush.

From the "grassy ledge" on the Western side of the South Face of the 4th Elephant, search the wall above through some block bulges for 2 bolts, these are perhaps 15 meters to the right of the old aid roof. If you are having trouble distinguishing where the aid roof is, there is a round-looking 4-foot wide chockstone with a handcrack on the left side of it just to the right of the old aid roof... but I digress....

Climb up towards the first of the 2 bolts from below and left, protecting on a few nuts and cams. The climbing is made somewhat insecure by lichen but is not terribly hard. Clip the first bolt and get into pinches and underclings (crux) to get to the second bolt. Clip that and head up into the last bulge (med stopper overhead) and fight up onto a sloping ledge (second crux).

Continue upward and slightly right on very moderate terrain with reasonable gear to the base of some obvious cracks (Endgame, 5.10a) and belay or continue to the top, depending on your level of rope drag.

Location 

This route starts up on the gravely ledge on the West end of the South Face of the 4th Elephant. It is toward the right hand side of that ledge. Spot the 2 bolts from the ledge.

Protection 

A light rack - 1 set of cams, 1 set of stoppers including the large ones, and plenty of long slings.


Comments on Unknown Mixed Route aka The Green Gargoyle? Add Comment
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By Drew Spaulding
From: Boulder, CO
May 28, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I think this pitch is 5.11a past the 2 bolts and up through the final roof before easing off. Climb up and right to the nice ledge at the base of the green lichened pillar above.... I think this pitch is more like 5.10b. Climb up the right-leaning, thin hand crack and step left up under the roof. A small cam (1/4") protects the exciting face moves on huge jugs(5.9+) to gain the continuing crack above. We call this THE GREEN GARGOYLE - 2 pitches, 5.11a, 5.10b.
By George Bracksieck
4 hours ago

I suspect that the lower part of "GG" has been led before the two bolts were installed. Furthermore, the 10b second pitch described in Drew's comment seems to be the upper part of Endgame (FFA: Jim Erickson, solo, 1973).

In the route description of "GG" (above), Tony refers to Endgame as an obvious finish. The upper half of the green line in the beta photo is definitely on Endgame. I've led it.