Unknown Mixed Route aka The Green Gargoyle?  5.10d

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.11a [details] FA:  unknown Season:  FacesS/SW Submitted By:  Tony B on May 2, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This route could be a lot better if it were cleaned up. However, this side of the rock draws few climbers, and it is unlikely to clean up from traffic - something more deliberate would be required... if you do it, please take a brush.

From the "grassy ledge" on the Western side of the South Face of the 4th Elephant, search the wall above through some block bulges for 2 bolts, these are perhaps 15 meters to the right of the old aid roof. If you are having trouble distinguishing where the aid roof is, there is a round-looking 4-foot wide chockstone with a handcrack on the left side of it just to the right of the old aid roof... but I digress....

Climb up towards the first of the 2 bolts from below and left, protecting on a few nuts and cams. The climbing is made somewhat insecure by lichen but is not terribly hard. Clip the first bolt and get into pinches and underclings (crux) to get to the second bolt. Clip that and head up into the last bulge (med stopper overhead) and fight up onto a sloping ledge (second crux).

Continue upward and slightly right on very moderate terrain with reasonable gear to the base of some obvious cracks (Endgame, 5.10a) and belay or continue to the top, depending on your level of rope drag.

Location 

This route starts up on the gravely ledge on the West end of the South Face of the 4th Elephant. It is toward the right hand side of that ledge. Spot the 2 bolts from the ledge.

Protection 

A light rack - 1 set of cams, 1 set of stoppers including the large ones, and plenty of long slings.