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 ADVANCED
Supercrack Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
24 Variation T 
24 Unknown T 
3AM Crack T 
Amaretto Corner T 
Anasazi T 
Bad Rad Duality T 
Binge and Purge T 
Bongo Flake T 
Coyne Crack T 
Fat Free T 
Fingers In A Lightsocket T 
Gorilla T 
Incredible Hand Crack T 
International Affair T 
Keyhole Flake T 
Left Affair T 
No Name Crack T 
Nuclear Waste T 
On-Slot, The T 
Painted Pony T 
Pigs in a Slot T 
Pink Flamingo T 
Pringles T 
Savelli Crack T 
super bubbushka T 
Super Surprised T 
Supercrack of the Desert T 
Supershack 
Too Much Cake T 
Triple Jeopardy T 
Twin Cracks T 
Unknown T 
Unknown on far left side of wall T 
Unknown Right of Too Much Cake T 
Unknown, left of Keyhole Flake T 
Unnamed T 
Wave, The T 
Wild Works of Fire T 
Zow T 
Unsorted Routes:

Unknown, left of Keyhole Flake 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,793
Submitted By: Jared Brown on Apr 25, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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"Stick" clip.

Description 

This route is just left of Keyhole Flake and climbs a offwidth flake to a step right across to a fun, thin lieback flake. The step across is the crux.

Protection 

A few cams from .5 to 2 Camalot, a large stopper on a stick or a very large cam might protect the start


Photos of Unknown, left of Keyhole Flake Slideshow Add Photo
Jenny climbs the wide start.  Photo by J P Boyd.
Jenny climbs the wide start. Photo by J P Boyd.
The chalk marks are the 12- variation to this rout...
The chalk marks are the 12- variation to this rout...
I just traversed from the wide crack to the thin c...
I just traversed from the wide crack to the thin c...

Comments on Unknown, left of Keyhole Flake Add Comment
Show which comments
By William McGehee
From: Choctaw, OK
Oct 6, 2003

A number 10 Metolius nut works very well to protect the bottom of the crack. If your leader is WAY to sketched out to place this, there are two options: Lift someone on to your shoulders to place the nut on a QD or place a #5 Camalot in the huge offwidth on the left that contains the side-pull hold necessary to gain the crack. Led this for the second time yesterday and all I have to say is that the nut is BOMBER... Make sure your belayer is to the right of the climb near the wall to avoid BAD rope-burn...
By steven sadler
From: SLC, UT
Sep 19, 2010

the number 5 BD cam doesn't fit at the top of the OW crack. we got way too sketched out so we picked up a girl and she set a nut to start it off. i would recommend it because the kid who led it after we placed the nut would've decked. he took a nice fall on the nut. without it... ouch.
By Alexander Nees
From: Grand Junction, CO
Apr 3, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

A #6 C4 works to protect the offwidth (I'm sure a #6 Friend would work too). It's not big enough for the very top of the offwidth, but it can be set high enough to prevent a groundfall when traversing right into the finger crack. I'd recommend the big piece for this route, especially if it's your first time on it. The traverse move is a bit funky and a fall from there could be ugly. Great climb though!