This route is just left of Keyhole Flake and climbs a offwidth flake to a step right across to a fun, thin lieback flake. The step across is the crux.
A few cams from .5 to 2 Camalot, a large stopper on a stick or a very large cam might protect the start
Jenny climbs the wide start. Photo by J P Boyd.
The chalk marks are the 12- variation to this rout...
I just traversed from the wide crack to the thin c...
|By William McGehee|
From: Choctaw, OK
Oct 6, 2003
A number 10 Metolius nut works very well to protect the bottom of the crack. If your leader is WAY to sketched out to place this, there are two options: Lift someone on to your shoulders to place the nut on a QD or place a #5 Camalot in the huge offwidth on the left that contains the side-pull hold necessary to gain the crack. Led this for the second time yesterday and all I have to say is that the nut is BOMBER... Make sure your belayer is to the right of the climb near the wall to avoid BAD rope-burn...
|By steven sadler|
From: SLC, UT
Sep 19, 2010
the number 5 BD cam doesn't fit at the top of the OW crack. we got way too sketched out so we picked up a girl and she set a nut to start it off. i would recommend it because the kid who led it after we placed the nut would've decked. he took a nice fall on the nut. without it... ouch.
|By Alexander Nees|
From: Grand Junction, CO
Apr 3, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
A #6 C4 works to protect the offwidth (I'm sure a #6 Friend would work too). It's not big enough for the very top of the offwidth, but it can be set high enough to prevent a groundfall when traversing right into the finger crack. I'd recommend the big piece for this route, especially if it's your first time on it. The traverse move is a bit funky and a fall from there could be ugly. Great climb though!