Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn  5.9-

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.9- [details] FA:  Unknown Submitted By:  Ivan Rezucha on Mar 10, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Above what we thought would be the crux.

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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>> As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack. For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152 From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Action Committee for Eldorado

Description 

Just left of the main Darkness 'til Dawn dihedral is a very obvious groove that continues past a small tree. This route is not in the guide, but I've eyed it more than once over the years. We finally climbed it, thinking it might be 10 or so, but since the gear looked to be good, so why not have a go? It turns out it's 9- or so with very good gear and very good climbing. What looks like the crux, moving left where DtD starts its real climbing, turns out to be easy. The actual crux is above the tree in the green corner. The corner eventually blanks out. Move up and right to get some decent holds. From here, the best choice is to continue right into upper DtD. We chose to move left around the arete into a left-facing corner and up to a questionable anchor. Chuck tried to continue up the corner to the DtD anchors, but it got hard, and he had little gear, so we ended up backing up the anchor in the corner and rapping from there. This anchor seems to exist for those who rap from the top of Grandmother's Challenge with a single rope.

Route details: start as for Darkness 'til Dawn or just left and climb up to where DtD enters the crack system on the right wall. Instead, move right and layback up to gain the groove. Moderate climbing leads to a small tree. You could move left here into the left facing corner, but instead, continue up the green corner above. Where it starts to blank out, make a move up and right to get some decent hand holds. Either move right to DtD or stem left to the arete and then left around the corner and up to the anchor.

Location 

This is in the same location as Darkness 'til Dawn.

Protection 

Standard rack to #2/gold Camalot. If you continue to the Darkness 'til Dawn anchors, you'll need a 70m or double ropes to get down, or will need to downclimb a bit. If you finish to the left, be prepared to back up the fixed anchor.

Photos of Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn Slideshow

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Starting the real climbing--moving left and up int...	Laybacking into the upper groove.	On the fun and easy climbing up to the tree. The r...
Moving up and right where the green corner blanks ...