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Wheeler Gorge
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Unknown, Left of Cobble Climb S 
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Wheel, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

Unknown, Left of Cobble Climb 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 148
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Mar 20, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Route topo for Wheeler Gorge
Yellow: Cruiser (5.9)...

Description 

Climbs past an overhang and then climbs low-angle rock to the top. The overhang proves to be easier than it looks, while the slabby stuff above proves to be harder than it looks--altogether an interesting route.


Location 

Starts 8 feet left of Cobble Climb


Protection 

5 Bolts to 2-bolt anchor with chains.
The first 3 lead bolts are 3/8" Rawls. The next 2 are 1/2" Rawls.



Photos of Unknown, Left of Cobble Climb Slideshow Add Photo
The only strange thing about this route is the location of the first bolt. Its placement in a protruding cobble does not inspire confidence. Many cobbles have pulled out over the years at Wheeler Gorge. As shown in the lower of the photos, there is a gaping hole from a pulled cobble just a couple of feet away from the first bolt.  <br /> <br />Since the first bolt protects the clear crux of the route, I was definitely wishing for something more reassuring.
The only strange thing about this route is the loc...
Comments on Unknown, Left of Cobble Climb Add Comment
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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Mar 20, 2014

I was very pleasantly surprised by the quality of the climbing on this route. The crux move arrives at the first bolt. Rock over onto a high right foot to pull past the roof. The next three bolts are interesting 5.8 climbing. Then things ease up.

Still has a lot of lichen, but it did not detract too much.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Apr 10, 2014

3/8" bolts down low; 1/2" bolts up high; seems to defy logic in terms fall forces...