Unknown (L side of SW face) 5.10
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| Type: | Sport, 2 pitches, 260 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b/c [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Geir on Nov 7, 2010 |
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Looking down on pitch one. I think I had about 16...
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Description A fair two-pitch bolted line that is worth doing if you are in the area.
Pitch 1 (5.10-, 150'): Climb up bolts along the arête. When the bolts leave the arête step right, plug in an optional cam, and make a 10-move on to a dike. Continue along bolts passing more dikes and a tree. Belay at a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 2 (5.10, 110'): Run it out from the anchor on easy ground to a series of bolts leading up 5.9-5.10 slab. You will arrive at a ledge with a diagonal crack protected by more bolts. Follow the crack up for three bolts, then step left on to harder slab (5.10) ending at a move around a blunt arête and some crumbly rock. Belay at a two bolt anchor. Contrived but with some decent slab moves.
Descent: Rappel the route.
A topo for this route can be downloaded from www.geir.com/muttonhead%20sw.pdf
Location Far left side of the Southwest face of Muttonhead. Starts at the arête just right of Seeing is Believing.
Protection Quickdraws, a few cams ranging from .4" to 2".
Mark on the first pitch, above all the dikes.
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Ouch, my fingers.
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Second pitch is slabtastic!
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Getting into the last little bit of hard slab, top...
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BETA PHOTO: P1. Like the name "Lesbian Encounters" suggested, ...
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| Comments on Unknown (L side of SW face) |
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By Joe Lee
From: tucson, az
Nov 22, 2010
rating: 5.10+
| Pitch one is somewhat atypical for the Stronghold. Steep, sporty, and long. Bring lots of draws. Lots of fun. Then change gears for pitch two. Full on slab with at least one desperate section.
If you only have a 60 meter rope like us, you can get off by (1) continuing to the top and walking off (2) traversing straight to the left around a bulge to fixing rap anchors.
Fun route. |
By Tim Hadfield
From: Steamboat Springs, Co
Jan 12, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c
| This was definitely solid 5.10 climbing, and a real hoot. We were calling it "Lesbian Encounter", because you climb through at least three sweet intruding dikes. We ended up climbing on to the top of the formation for a fairly simple hike back to the packs. |
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