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The Muttonhead
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Full Metal Hootgat T 
Inevitable Awaits You, The S 
Mystery of the Desert T 
Oops I sharted T 
Seeing is Believing T 
Steep Short Green Streak S 
Tiny But Exciting S 
Tour Buses Welcome S 
Unknown (L side of SW face) S 
Unknown (R side of SW face) S 
unknown (se arete) S 

Unknown (L side of SW face) 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 260'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 804
Submitted By: Geir on Nov 7, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Getting into the last little bit of hard slab, top...


A fair two-pitch bolted line that is worth doing if you are in the area.

Pitch 1 (5.10-, 150'): Climb up bolts along the arête. When the bolts leave the arête step right, plug in an optional cam, and make a 10-move on to a dike. Continue along bolts passing more dikes and a tree. Belay at a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 (5.10, 110'): Run it out from the anchor on easy ground to a series of bolts leading up 5.9-5.10 slab. You will arrive at a ledge with a diagonal crack protected by more bolts. Follow the crack up for three bolts, then step left on to harder slab (5.10) ending at a move around a blunt arête and some crumbly rock. Belay at a two bolt anchor. Contrived but with some decent slab moves.

Descent: Rappel the route.

A topo for this route can be downloaded from



Far left side of the Southwest face of Muttonhead. Starts at the arête just right of Seeing is Believing.


Quickdraws, a few cams ranging from .4" to 2".

Photos of Unknown (L side of SW face) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ouch, my fingers.
Ouch, my fingers.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark on the first pitch, above all the dikes.
Mark on the first pitch, above all the dikes.
Rock Climbing Photo: Second pitch is slabtastic!
Second pitch is slabtastic!
Rock Climbing Photo: P1. Like the name "Lesbian Encounters" s...
BETA PHOTO: P1. Like the name "Lesbian Encounters" s...

Comments on Unknown (L side of SW face) Add Comment
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By Tim Hadfield
From: Steamboat Springs, Co
Jan 12, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This was definitely solid 5.10 climbing, and a real hoot. We were calling it "Lesbian Encounter", because you climb through at least three sweet intruding dikes. We ended up climbing on to the top of the formation for a fairly simple hike back to the packs.
By Justin Headley
From: Tucson
Apr 21, 2016

You're not going to top out unless you bring gear. From the 2nd pitch anchors, go up and left to join up with the 5.6R pitch of Tour Buses Welcome. I never found that cam placement on the first pitch, but felt the bolt spacing was fine anyway.

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