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This is actually kind of a fun line, although the lack of continuity drops the star rating a bit. When/if you wander the Twelve Pack Wall's right side looking for a line to call out to you, you might just see this line and rack up. It's not quite as hard as it looks, but the pro is small at the crux.
To the right of Chunky Monkey by perhaps 40 feet, you will see a S-shaped line in a left-facing dihedral of a pair. Start up in the double cracks with good body scums. There is a slightly reachy (especially for those 5'4") bit perhaps 25 feet up where you can scoot to the left crack if necessary. That is probably the physical crux. Then, you need to move right where the crack gets too small for pro or fingers. You can get a #3 BD wire here before you reach out right for the arete hold. That's a fun move and probably the mental crux. Continue up the arete or dihedral to a ledge. Finish off the line on slightly more licheny terrain. There is an old small Friend stuck in a crack near the top. Create a gear anchor.
The name used here is how it is listed in Jason Haas' colorful guidebook.
To descend, you can walk off to the right.
Oh yeah, Jackie saw a lizard climbing up and down the route...ropeless, of course.
This is ~40 feet right of Chunky Monkey. It starts the same as for Pump You Up or just to the left.
Up to a #3.5 Camalot with a #3 BD wire is nice. Some longer slings for your anchor will reduce rope wear. The anchor we used included #3, 3.5 Camalots and an orange Alien.
Mark Hudson making the fun reach for the arete hol...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from about halfway up.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Apr 25, 2013
This route does not start the same as "Pump You Up". "Pump You Up" starts about 5 feet to the left in an independent crack system.