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Rock Island I
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Unknown II aka The Broken Wing 

Unknown II aka The Broken Wing 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a X

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: a drytooling climber
Page Views: 527
Submitted By: Caleb Phillips on May 6, 2009
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Description 

The route directly under the left (looking up) bolts. Starts 5.7ish but kind of technical, getting up to the big ledge. Move a little right and then climb up the right side of the face on an obvious (and often chalked) sequence of juggy holds. Avoid straying into the middle of the face (hard! crummy rock!) or the chunky nose (boring!). Pumpy. Maybe the hardest move is 5.10, but 5.9 by BC standards.


Location 

This route is between Independent and Destroyer - left of the Destroyer roof, and on the right side of the reddish, sheer face.


Protection 

Use the anchors at the top to setup a TR. There is a single bolt you can use to protect yourself while you set up an anchor on the two (exposed and hidden) bolts. I suppose you could lead it, but the placements would be shitty and scarce.



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By Dragin
Jun 18, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c

This climb has nice variations that traverse right. I heard this climb called "The Broken Wing". It is a great route to practice some essentials for Boulder Canyon. Definitely not an x rating from me, just dicey at the start.