Unknown Highway A1
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| Type: | Aid, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | A0+ [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Submitted By: | Eddie Clarke on Feb 5, 2003 |
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Description This is the bolt ladder located on the west side of Willit Pillar. The first bolt is actually a rivet, so bring a hanger or a medium nut. For a fun finish, skip the last two bolts and mantel up on the good hold to the right.
Protection Need 1 rivet hanger. Bolt ladder. If soloing, set bottom anchor using 2 nuts and #4 camalot. There are rappel anchors on top (to rappel off the back of the rock), but if you have to rappel the route to clean gear be aware that it is a huge pain to pull the rope from that angle.
| Comments on Unknown Highway |
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By Jace Mullen
From: Oceanside, Ca
Mar 4, 2013
CONDITION REPORT | Just did it this weekend. First rivet is missing, I used a sketch horizontal nut but a hook would have been bomber in the pin scar/bathook hole.
Also, in other news, there is a section of about 3 bolts missing right in the middle. It makes for a fun mantle off to the climber's right until the bolt ladder is regained to the top. |
By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 29, 2004
rating: C0
| The Unknown Highway bolt ladder is in good repair and I doubt needs any attention. A few years back a climber ripped an old bolt and broke his leg. He subsequently went back and replaced most (if not all) of the bolts.
17 bolts total in the bolt ladder. |
By Matt Marino
From: Georgetown, MA
Nov 14, 2010
| A nice place to learn some aid techniques. If you don't mind some suspect pro I highly recommend it. That being said I did this route today and about 1/3 of the bolts rotate freely and need to be replaced. The first bolt is completely gone and near the top one bolt is about 2/3 out of it's hole. You top out at an old anchor made out of 2 rusty bolts and some 3 year old webbing. Reason enough to start carrying a bolt kit. |
By Benjamin Chapman
From: CA
Dec 8, 2010
rating: A0
| The bolts are in "good repair" due to the efforts of Gerry Cox and were upgraded in the fall of 1994 (no pun intended!). Incidentally, the climber (Gerry) DIDN"T break his leg, but did dislocate his right ankle, necessitating an all day wait in the High Desert Hospital Emergency Room, when a 1/4" Rawl buttonhead pulled under body weight, and precipitated a 20ft. fall. |
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