Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Sabbatical Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bon Voyage 
De-Birth 
Decreation 
Finger Fun 
Genetics 
Immaculate Conception 
Induced Labor 
Minute Man 
Miscarriage 
My Son is a Perv! 
Reincarnation 
Sabbatical 36 
Toss, The 
Unknown D.F. Route 
Unknown Flake 
Womb, The 

Unknown Flake 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Faces East
Page Views: 207
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 21, 2008
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: The start

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

A slightly harder short route- starting off with jamming and ending in an open-book layback. The crux is probably coming out of the wide-finger layback and getting into the crack above on poor feet. Good rock, good moves, but too short to be satisfying.


Location 

perhaps 50 meters right of the Sabbatical corner, and 15 meters right of the 'Unknown D.F. Route' there is a very obtuse corner formed by a flake against the wall. This is wide down low with a small crack in it, and narrow up top. A set of black slings hangs in a pin/bolt anchor above and is easily seem from the right of the route, but not from below.


Protection 

Good gear, but hard to place up high due to position and angle- the flake takes gear from .5" to 2", mostly in the finger size up high, and ascends to a sling and ring anchor on a bolt and pin. The PG-13 rating here reflects a subjective danger to inexperienced leaders who might have difficulty sizing blind pro in an open book layback or placing properly and deeply enough to be safe in a thin flake.



Photos of Unknown Flake Slideshow Add Photo
Kateri laying it back!
Kateri laying it back!
Comments on Unknown Flake Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Plesko
From: Westminster, CO
Nov 8, 2010

Anchor was double drilled angles with webbing and biners. We added some new purple webbing on 11/7/2010.

By slim
Administrator
Apr 5, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

plaque calls it 'back to school'. short but pretty good with tricky obtuse laybacking. luckily your feet are on smooth rock with a little bit of lichen to help. anchor is 2 pins sticking pretty far out, might need to be driven in a bit deeper.

By Mike Munger
From: Boulder, Colorado
Oct 21, 2011

Climb it straight on for a little more of a challenge (11a?) and good visualization of your gear placements. The climber who lead this pitch just before me sewed it up but all of his placements were tipped out and he would have decked if he had fallen. Caveat Emptor