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 ADVANCED
Sabbatical Wall
Routes Sorted
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Baby Fat T 
Bon Voyage T 
De-Birth T 
Decreation T 
Dust Lung T 
Finger Fun T 
Genetics T 
Immaculate Conception T 
Induced Labor T 
Minute Man T 
Miscarriage T 
My Son is a Perv! T,TR 
Reincarnation T 
Sabbatical 36 T 
Stillborn T 
Toss, The T 
Unknown D.F. Route T 
Unknown Flake T 
Womb, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

Unknown Flake 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Faces East
Page Views: 225
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 21, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: The start

Description 

A slightly harder short route- starting off with jamming and ending in an open-book layback. The crux is probably coming out of the wide-finger layback and getting into the crack above on poor feet. Good rock, good moves, but too short to be satisfying.

Location 

perhaps 50 meters right of the Sabbatical corner, and 15 meters right of the 'Unknown D.F. Route' there is a very obtuse corner formed by a flake against the wall. This is wide down low with a small crack in it, and narrow up top. A set of black slings hangs in a pin/bolt anchor above and is easily seem from the right of the route, but not from below.

Protection 

Good gear, but hard to place up high due to position and angle- the flake takes gear from .5" to 2", mostly in the finger size up high, and ascends to a sling and ring anchor on a bolt and pin. The PG-13 rating here reflects a subjective danger to inexperienced leaders who might have difficulty sizing blind pro in an open book layback or placing properly and deeply enough to be safe in a thin flake.


Photos of Unknown Flake Slideshow Add Photo
Kateri laying it back!
Kateri laying it back!

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By Chris Plesko
From: Westminster, CO
Nov 8, 2010

Anchor was double drilled angles with webbing and biners. We added some new purple webbing on 11/7/2010.
By slim
Administrator
Apr 5, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

plaque calls it 'back to school'. short but pretty good with tricky obtuse laybacking. luckily your feet are on smooth rock with a little bit of lichen to help. anchor is 2 pins sticking pretty far out, might need to be driven in a bit deeper.
By Mike Munger
From: Boulder, Colorado
Oct 21, 2011

Climb it straight on for a little more of a challenge (11a?) and good visualization of your gear placements. The climber who lead this pitch just before me sewed it up but all of his placements were tipped out and he would have decked if he had fallen. Caveat Emptor