Start on a finger crack on climber's left of Pumpstation, climb the crack, passing a bolt up top to a set of eyebolts (5.7-8). Belay here, or continue up the obvious dihedral to a set of rap anchors up top (5.9).
This route is a good moderate trad route for the area, with good protection at the crux, and decent exposure.
- Use extreme caution if lowering from the top with a sixty meter rope.*
Standard rack, extra runners are very useful if doing it in one pitch to minimize rope drag.
|By Zak Munro|
From: VT, Leadville CO
May 5, 2014
Fun climb, went out left after the the first crack then belayed from the eye bolts and climbed the upper section. The initial crack has bomber stopper placements, then on the upper section anywhere from a #0.3 Camalot to a 3. I only brought along one 3 but would have been happy with another for the wide section just before the bolts. The Arkansas guide calls the first crack Don's Delight, which is 8+ and the dihedral on the second pitch 9+.