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North Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
An Eye For an Eye T 
Bucky's Paradise (formerly "Unknown far left") S 
Buddha Bukstein Crack T 
Just The Fad 
Panacea Roof S 
Remedy S 
Turn the Other Cheek T,TR 
Walk The Line T 

Bucky's Paradise (formerly "Unknown far left") 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 701
Submitted By: SteveZ on Oct 5, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO: Unknown. Goes to the roof then continues to follow...

Description 

Begins up eye for an eye to the roof, then traverses left on big holds and around the corner up increasingly thin edges on a slab face.

Location 

First route encountered as you come up the hill from the road.
Begins same as Eye for an eye, moves left at large roof.

Protection 

7 or 8 bolts. One bolt with quick link at top or top out.


Photos of Bucky's Paradise (formerly "Unknown far left") Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rhoads.
Rhoads.

Comments on Bucky's Paradise (formerly "Unknown far left") Add Comment
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By Tradoholic
Jun 17, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Not as good as Eye. Gets harder the higher you go on the slab, I bailed left at the last bolt to gain the top.
By Alexander Molzahn
Jun 11, 2015

FYI, there's no longer a quicklink on the last bolt.
By Alexander Molzahn
Jul 27, 2015

I replaced the quicklink last week.
By Joel Allen
From: La Crosse
Apr 24, 2016

This thing is fantastic and deserves a real name! Great climbing through the first 3 bolts then into a fun traverse leading to a couple powery moves to gain the final slab! Topout directly over the last bolt for some great final moves and hang an anchor off the tree!

Also there is a cool direct start that is pretty hard, maybe goes at V5. You can do it safely if you stick clip the second bolt.
By Tradoholic
3 days ago
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

For name I suggest "Bucky's Paradise".
By Joel Allen
From: La Crosse
3 days ago

^ I like it! :)

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