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Blue Gramma Cliff
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Blue Gramma 
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Unknown far left 
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Unsorted Routes:

Unknown far left 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 746
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 3, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: I-forget-who follows on the Further route left on ...

Description 

Possibly getting off of the ground more than a few meters- the bottoms is a bit sandy. Place a piece and step up onto the leaning crack and footholds to the left. Someone stacked cheater stones at the base, but these are totally unnecessary. Climb up on mixed jams to just over a final bulge with a newly refurbished fixed anchor. Rap with a 70M rope. A 60M rope WILL NOT get you down.
The present anchor at the top with a fixed #11 hex and pin were extensively tested, but the rock is a little soft and the anchor should be checked carefully before implicit trust is given it.


Location 

This route is the furthest left route known on Blue Gramma. It is not documented in any place that I can find. Walk left from along the base of Blue Gramma cliff, North towards Supercrack Buttress. Continue to a low spot, where a low buttress forces hikers closest to the road and then turn a corner into a NW facing grey wall. A 2" crack starts up and left on this wall, passing a drilled angle en-route to a anchor consisting of a fixed #11 hex (I placed it) and a legacy lost-arrow in a horizontal.


Protection 

A standard rack with cams from 1" to 3.5". one fixed pin exists at about mid-route on the right of the crack. The anchor at the top is not ideal, but seems as solid at the rock it is in.
A single 70M rope or 2 ropes are required to rap off



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