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Buick Rocks and Hitler's Sex Life
Select Route:
Beamer Up Scotty T 
Buick, The T 
Civic Minded T 
Energon Cube T 
Green Slab S 
Initial Route T 
Pooh Belly T,TR 
Unknown Face S 
Yo Mama Osama T,TR 

Unknown Face 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 633
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Dec 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: "Unknown Face".

CLOSED for 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This short sport route is on the second buttress of Buick Rocks, ie above and left of Hitler's Sex Life formation (which is lower on the hillside to the right) and the right of the two Buick Rocks. This line is high on the right side (SW) of the second buttress, between two trad lines Pooh Belly (5.7 on the left) and Kiss Face (5.10b? on the right). A few tricky moves off the ground are protected well by the first bolt, but the climb remains fairly sustained through the third bolt.

Protection 

Four or five bolts to two bolt anchor.


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By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Apr 12, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The route seemed a little more difficult than 10a. It was raining at the time, so that might have contributed.
By Umph!
Oct 13, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Hubbel (Classic Rock Climbs Lyons Area) shows this as 10c/d, I'd say 10c. I really liked this route - a low crux that's kinda tricky leads to nice, sustained movement to a two-bolt rap.
By Kat A
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Jul 15, 2007

A fun route - especially the beginning moves. The middle section has a reachy move which is easier for tall climbers, much harder for short climbers - which might explain the differences in ratings.
By goatboywonder
Aug 13, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I agree that it felt a little harder than 10a, especially compared to Green Slab (9+). Then again, I also did it in a light rain. Opening moves are thin and getting the feet over the first roof was fun.