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Unknown 9+ aka Hustle T,S 
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Unknown Center Variation aka Quick Silver S 
Unknown Ear Route aka Smallville S 
Unknown Far Right aka Dexter S 
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Whodathunkit T,TR 

Unknown Ear Route aka Smallville 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ed Ash? energized bolter(s)?
Page Views: 928
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Oct 8, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: Smallville after starting on Californication
(regu...
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Description 

This is a route that starts on funky terrain but ascends a brief, interesting, crux past an "ear" of sorts. If you stretch, it's sort of reminiscent of a mini "ear" pitch on Primrose.

This has a weird start with a bolt before you start, bolt on a block, then you move right on funky, crumbly terrain with rock scars. Go up to a black (rappable) hanger below an overlap. Two choices, try the funky hand jam / gaston under the ear (brutish and scrunched) or the more improbable looking palm smearing of the outside of the ear. Finish at a 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks. Oddly, there are 2 bolts with no hangers just left of the anchor.

This had been given a name within the database, but someone has deleted it. Now others have provided a name, Smallville. This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.


Location 

This is on the right side of the northwest aspect of this crag ascending an "ear"-like feature.


Protection 

7-8 bolts.



Comments on Unknown Ear Route aka Smallville Add Comment
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By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Jul 11, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I thought this was fun. (I started in the alcove, climbed the face and small rt facing dihedral.) Couple of hand jams, an arm bar and then outside to the diagonal crack and up. If nobody had been on the next route to the right, I'd have probably gone to those anchors, but up and left worked fine with a directional cam (.4 or .5) at the ledge.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 22, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Not so great, honestly. I can't say as if I thought it was a good route. It was awkward on 2 ascents, but never challenging in a good way.

By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Aug 18, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

The ear reminded me of Lumpy and was pretty hard for a warm up.... First I tried to jam and chimney behind it, but it was easier to just layback on the outside.

By Robots and Dinosaurs
Jul 3, 2013

I'm not experienced enough for my ratings to help anyone really, but as a 6'1 person who can lead 5.10+ without that much trouble, this was super hard. Getting through the 'ear' was rough, I didn't lay back, but it was a struggle getting through it. It says in the guidebook that it's easier for shorter people, and my 5'5 friend did have a much easier time than I did, so maybe that holds true. It's a fun route if you don't mind it being a little different that most sport climbing in the canyon.