Unknown (Double Lieback)  5.9+

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Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.9+ [details] FA:  unknown Submitted By:  Leo Paik on May 28, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Topo of unknown double lieback.

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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is a route on the North face (containing at least 5 routes) of Triangle Rock. It may be considered a variation to Bucket Brigade; however, the climbing is distinct except for a rest before the traverse to the 'bucket' of Bucket Brigade. It forms a skinny X with Bucket Brigade on a topo. Although it can be led, a TR might prove more palatable, due to the start & tree at midheight. It is not a destination climb but worth a run if you are already at Triangle Rock.

Approach this as for the East side of Twin Owls & Gollum's Arch. Approach as for Gollum's Arch, head down a gully, then traverse to the crag. This rock lies East of Twin Owls & is down & East of Gollum's Arch. Expect a bit of bush.

This line is the 2nd dihedral from the left. It starts in a nook with pinching, jamming, and liebacking. There are a couple small cam placements to start. An efficient climber may find stems & jams at the first obvious lieback stretch, where the less-mentally-nimble, like meself, will power into a slightly sketchy lieback. Gain a good rest 3/4 up. Here, fire another lieback to the top. (Beta, left foot at the good hold works better.) 60 feet.

You can walkoff down the South face and exit East.

Any help with the real name?

Protection 

Mostly cams. Perhaps better for a TR.

Photos of Unknown (Double Lieback) Slideshow

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A key left foot on the good hold.