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Atlantis
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All Kings Men 
Armed and Dangerous 
Black & Tan 
Brush Your Teeth Before You Kiss Me 
Bunny Slope 
Capital Punishment 
Cracka ass Cracka 
Diaper Rash 
Direct Start 
Double Exposure 
Feast and Famine 
First Born 
Flakes of Wrath 
For Some Reason 
G-String 
Giggling Marlin 
Grumpy after Eight 
Hide and Seek 
Impending Doom 
KGB 
Mangler, The 
Mickey Mouse 
Mondo Freako 
Neptune 
Overbearing Underminer 
Phantom 
Public Hanging 
Public Hanging Direct 
Schizophrenic Boulevard 
Shoot First, Ask Later 
Sir Charles 
Slap & Tickle 
Smokin Guns 
Trinity is My Name 
U.S. Senators Are Space Aliens 
Unknown 
Unknown Dihedral 
Unsorted Routes:

Unknown Dihedral 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III British: VD 3a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 105'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: David Dodemaide & Kent Brock (1970s)
Page Views: 387
Submitted By: Hendrixson on Apr 19, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Classic rope and rock shot.

Description 

Scramble up to a ledge and optionally clip the first bolt of "Impending Doom". Follow the crack and either step left to hit the anchors of "Impending Doom" or venture further on easier ground. A small tree makes for a natural anchor should the route be followed to completion.

This route lists as a 5.3 in the pocket guide but I would grade it a 5.6. Also be aware that the rappel off the tree may require two ropes -- it would certainly be close. I rapped off the tree to the anchors of "Impending Doom".


Location 

Dihedral between "Impending Doom" and "Schizophrenic Blvd" on the creek right. Route #26 in Marty Karabin's "Road Area" (September 2008) pocket guide.


Protection 

Large to small pro. Optional bolt and anchors.



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By Joshua Jones
From: San Tan Valley, az
Sep 6, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

This climb is totally sandbagged. I would say 5.6 is still too low. I found the climb enjoyable on lead but there were moves that were more difficult than anything on First Born. I would say 5.6/7 trad lead could be sketchy. If you are solid at 5.8 go for it. It is fun, easy to protect and eats gear. You can avoid the double rope rappel by traversing left to the anchors for Neptune.