This is a fun route that climbs over a few interesting features. It actually starts LEFT of Ides of Middlemarch and crosses over it at the end of pitch 1. To locate the start, scramble up and left about 40' from the start of Ides. Two bolt lines depart from this area, you will use the one headed to the right.
Pitch 1 (5.8, 70'): Follow bolts up and right on slabby 5.8 terrain. A few pieces of gear need to be placed on this pitch. Ends at the anchors for the first pitch of Ides of Middlemarch.
Pitch 2 (5.10-, 100'): Climb up and slightly right to a crack. Place a few pieces of gear to protect moves leading out to a bolt line on your right. (Be careful here as a fall would result in a nasty swing.) Move to the bolt line (10-) and climb up a neat arete to a ledge. Traverse right on the ledge about 20 feet to an anchor.
Pitch 3 (5.10-, 90'): Follow two bolts up over a bulge, then walk 15' right across a neat detached arch in the rock. Once across, climb straight up past two bolts, then head up and left for 15' protecting with gear and bolts. After reaching a shallow hole in the rock, head straight up to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 4 (60', 5.9): Climb up and right following three bolts. After the third bolt, climb a crack up and right for about 20', then traverse directly right to a two bolt anchor.
An all-traditional variation can be done heading straight up after the third bolt. The pro is a bit scarce but the climbing is relatively easy. See the topo for details.
Pitch 5: (160', 10-R): The route joins with an older route (Mad Cow Disease?) and shares a pitch here. Head toward a bolt visible about 50' above. The terrain is about 5.7 and there is some occasional gear. After clipping the bolt, head up and slightly left following two more bolts and placing some gear. You will encounter a few 10- moves. Stop at a two bolt anchor by a large ledge.
Several alternatives exist to finish the climb from this point. I don't think this climb has an independant ending. I suggest moving the belay approx 100' left on the large ledge to the anchors for Peacemaker and finishing as follows:
Pitch 6 (160', 5.9) - From the two bolt anchor there are two bolt lines headed upward. Take the LEFT line of bolts. You may find a small cam to be helpful toward the end of the pitch.
From here a very short pitch (5.8, 20') gets you to the last anchors and the summit.
See topo at toofasttopos.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=6
Singles to 3.5" and stoppers are plenty to protect this mostly-bolted route.
|By Justin York|
From: Phoenix, AZ
Apr 8, 2010
Did a direct start to this route which is a bolted line (50-100 ft?) to the RIGHT of Ides. I guess this is Mad Cow Disease?? After two great pitches with thought-provoking moves, we continued up the unknown route described here. Highly recommend the linkup for a more direct line!
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 8, 2010
i believe that you did start on mad cow disease. when i first did this climb i started that way, too. i agree it makes a good start.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 1, 2010
Pitch 3 is the money!
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 18, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
This route is called "The Tombstone Stripper" and was established by Scott Ayers.