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Unknown (crack with pin left of Unnamed 5.11)
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British R
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in Beastie Alley
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Danger Mouse S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Fake-P, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Inner Sanctum S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Jaws S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Key to the Highway T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Lichen to Liken T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lock and Key T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Nuts and Knuckles T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pony Express T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rusty-P, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Thunder Toad S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unknown (crack with pin left of Unnamed 5.11) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Unnamed T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unnamed Fissure T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Unnatural Attraction S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 618 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | George Perkins on Jul 19, 2009 |
| Admins: | Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Seasonal Raptor Nesting.
Details
The remainder are on US Forest Service land. A map detailing the public areas can be obtained from the ranger station en route to the rocks from the village of Tres Piedras.
According to Jan Studebaker: "The property line mountainproject.com/v/new_m… runs from approximately the current east corner by the access gate in a straight line over the top of South Rock to the top middle of the Chicken Heads/Mosaic Wall mount, and from there west down the mount slope to the meadow just south of the Alley climbs. Some of the most popular routes are completely on private property. There are survey markers on the top of South rock (the mysterious aluminum stake stuck in the rock) and on top of the Mosaic rock (most of the time buried in water in a pot hole.)"
An online Tres Piedras Route Guide lamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note.
The landowner requests NO fires, no trash, no chalk and "please close any gates". Basically, be a good steward of the land.
In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.
Seasonal Raptor Nesting:
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
According to Jan Studebaker: "The property line mountainproject.com/v/new_m… runs from approximately the current east corner by the access gate in a straight line over the top of South Rock to the top middle of the Chicken Heads/Mosaic Wall mount, and from there west down the mount slope to the meadow just south of the Alley climbs. Some of the most popular routes are completely on private property. There are survey markers on the top of South rock (the mysterious aluminum stake stuck in the rock) and on top of the Mosaic rock (most of the time buried in water in a pot hole.)"
An online Tres Piedras Route Guide lamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note.
The landowner requests NO fires, no trash, no chalk and "please close any gates". Basically, be a good steward of the land.
In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.
Seasonal Raptor Nesting:
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
Description
Find the pin in the crack left of the black-hangered Unnamed (5.11) sport climb. Climb up to this by liebacking up the well-protected crack, or use face holds to either side. Clip the pin, then choose your adventure. I angled left, slung marginal chickenheads, then traversed left at least 20' with no opportunities for any good gear (which was spicy for both the leader & follower; possibly could sling more knobs?), and finished up a hands/OW crack to an anchor built off of a big block at the top. Straight up from the piton might go, but looked steep, thin, and poorly protected.
This climb is mentioned in the guidebook as one of 3 mixed routes in the Alley, but is not described or shown in a photo or topo, so you're on your own as far as the routefinding.
If someone has more info on this route (name/FA/intended direction), it would be interesting to learn the story of this old, forgotten route.
This climb is mentioned in the guidebook as one of 3 mixed routes in the Alley, but is not described or shown in a photo or topo, so you're on your own as far as the routefinding.
If someone has more info on this route (name/FA/intended direction), it would be interesting to learn the story of this old, forgotten route.
Location
Just left of the black-bolted Unnamed 5.11 sport climb on the south side of the Alley, look for a knifeblade piton in a shallow right-facing crack.
There is another mixed climb with 2 old 1/4"(?) bolts left of this line. No details at this time, but it would share the finish that I used for this climb.
Descend by scrambling down (some 4th class) to the anchor for Pony Express, and rap from there back into the Alley with 1 rope.
There is another mixed climb with 2 old 1/4"(?) bolts left of this line. No details at this time, but it would share the finish that I used for this climb.
Descend by scrambling down (some 4th class) to the anchor for Pony Express, and rap from there back into the Alley with 1 rope.
Photos
- No Photos -
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