Going in left side in makes it tough to get your s...
Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>
Stay tuned for an announcement of the transfer to the County, as well as an upcoming celebration at Golden Cliffs to commemorate the legacy of Mayford Peery, who donated the cliffs to the Access Fund in 1994. The event will celebrate 20 years of Access Fund ownership and officially present Golden Cliffs to Jefferson County Open Space.
I don't know the name of this route, but it definitely has been done before seeing as there are anchors for it at the top and it is a pretty obvious line. If you know name or FA, let me know.
The first 10 feet are fairly overhanging and definitely the crux of the route. You can use a #0.5 Camalot to protect the overhanging moves. Once past the overhang, it gets substantially easier. Cruise up the right-angling, shallow crack to the anchors.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Jan 20, 2012 rating: 5.106b20VII-19E2 5b
While the climbing is much easier above, the rock quality is more suspect. Be careful and protect the upper part adequately, since some of the holds up there, particularly to the left of the crack, seemed questionable. Also, a helmet gets in the way for the bottom offwidth, but in retrospect it might be useful to get tossed up to you once you get to the ledge.
Addendum: on the second run, we found you can go either right side in or left side in.
By Jay Eggleston From: Littleton Feb 6, 2013 rating: 5.10c6b20VII20E2 5b
The anchors on this were likely installed for the 11c/d to the right, but they make for a good anchor for this climb.