Unknown Crack (Right of The Virus)
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I don't know the name of this route, but it definitely has been done before seeing as there are anchors for it at the top and it is a pretty obvious line. If you know name or FA, let me know.
The first 10 feet are fairly overhanging and definitely the crux of the route. You can use a #0.5 Camalot to protect the overhanging moves. Once past the overhang, it gets substantially easier. Cruise up the right-angling, shallow crack to the anchors.
This is just right The Virus and left of New River Gorge Homesick Blues.
Nuts and cams up to a #3 Camalot. There are two anchors at the top.
|Photos of Unknown Crack (Right of The Virus) Slideshow
Analyzing the crux and pro.
Going in left side in makes it tough to get your s...
BETA PHOTO: The crack (in the center).
|Comments on Unknown Crack (Right of The Virus)
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jan 20, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
While the climbing is much easier above, the rock quality is more suspect. Be careful and protect the upper part adequately, since some of the holds up there, particularly to the left of the crack, seemed questionable. Also, a helmet gets in the way for the bottom offwidth, but in retrospect it might be useful to get tossed up to you once you get to the ledge.
Addendum: on the second run, we found you can go either right side in or left side in.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Feb 6, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
The anchors on this were likely installed for the 11c/d to the right, but they make for a good anchor for this climb.