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The Sheepshead
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Absinthe of Mallet T 
Barnyard Wall 1 S 
Barnyard Wall 2 T,S 
Climb Too Tough To Die, The T,S 
Ewephoria T,S 
Get The Flock Out Of Here T 
Great second pitch. S 
Greedy Little Varmint T 
Ides of Middlemarch T 
Mad Cow Disease T,S 
Peacemaker, The S 
Stampede S 
Tombstone Stripper, The T,S 
Unknown (begins 50' left of The Climb Too Tough to Die) T,S 
Unknown (corner 15' left of Peacemaker) T,S 
Unknown (right of stampede) T 
Unknown (Right of The Peacemaker) S 

Unknown (corner 15' left of Peacemaker) 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 6 pitches, 790', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Scott Ayers and ?
Page Views: 2,180
Submitted By: Geir on Apr 28, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Electric colors on the 2nd pitch.

Description 

This is a terrific route which starts in the crack system directly left of Peacemaker. Although the climb ascends the relatively unappealing-looking gully and chimney left of Peacemaker, don't let the appearance deceive you ... this a great, fun route.

Pitch 1 (5.9, 180'): Start in a short crack about 10' left of the start of Peacemaker. Climb past two bolts to gain the large, right facing crack/corner. Climb up this feature until it joins the bolted climb to the right (the first pitch of Peacemaker). Continue on Peacemaker a few moves (protecting on bolts) as it turns left into the chimney system. Instead of heading up and right to Peacemaker's anchors, continue up into the chimney to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 (5.10a/b, 145'): Climb up the gully on easy terrain clipping a few spaced-out bolts. As the gully steepens and heads toward a chimney, the bolts are placed closer together. You will encounter an interesting 5.10 a/b stemming move just before you enter the chimney. Continue up the chimney protecting with bolts and gear. Exit the chimney and belay at a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 3 (5.10a, 120'): Start up and slightly right on thin cracks (10a) protected by a bolt. Place gear to protect more moves up the crack until you gain a series of bolts headed up and left to a bulge. Pull the bulge (10a) and head up and right to an anchor below a roof.

Pitch 4 (5.10a, 160'): Transfer the belay 15 feet left to a comfortable ledge; tie off a large tree as your new anchor. Head straight up the corner to a bolt protecting a fun bulge move (5.9). At the top of the bulge move six feet right into a crack. Ascend the crack protecting with gear until bolts lead you to short traverse right (10a). Continue upward placing gear and following bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 5 (5.10 a/b, 140'): An excellent pitch. Head up and slightly left on tricky face moves (10a/b) over a bulge. Continue up excellent slab climbing to a two bolt anchor left of a shrub.

(The anchor for the final pitch of Stampede is on the other side of the shrub, offering an alternative, difficult finish to this climb)

Pitch 6 (5.7, 50'): Easy 5.7 climbing past three bolts to the top. Belay with a gear anchor that takes 2-4" cams in a crack under a huge boulder on your left. This is the same belay at which Absinthe of Mallet ends.

Descent: walk off from the summit.

A topo including this climb can be downloaded by clicking this link:

toofasttopos.com/free/

Location 

Start just left of Peacemaker.

Protection 

A full rack to 4" is needed primarily for the first pitch. Doubles of red, gold, and blue Camalot suggested. Gear is used throughout the remainder of the climb, but not to the same extent.


Photos of Unknown (corner 15' left of Peacemaker) Slideshow Add Photo
Emily on the sweet 3rd pitch.
Emily on the sweet 3rd pitch.
Fourth Pitch of Unknown Left of Peacemaker
Fourth Pitch of Unknown Left of Peacemaker
Emily finishing off the climb in fine style.
Emily finishing off the climb in fine style.
"get me out of this thing"  Emily near the top of the chimney
"get me out of this thing" Emily near t...
On the second pitch of Unknown Left of Peacemaker.
On the second pitch of Unknown Left of Peacemaker....
Joel Hunt on the last pitch of Unknown Left of Peacemaker
Joel Hunt on the last pitch of Unknown Left of Pea...
Joel Hunt leading the third pitch of Unknown Left of Peacemaker
Joel Hunt leading the third pitch of Unknown Left ...
Stuber climbing pitch 4.
Stuber climbing pitch 4.

Comments on Unknown (corner 15' left of Peacemaker) Add Comment
Show which comments
By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Dec 3, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

if you don't want to carry a full rack you can begin this climb on the 1st pitch of Peacemaker- you could probably get away with just a green & yellow alien and a #3.5 BD cam (new #4).
By Catherine Conner
From: Phoenix, AZ
Feb 2, 2010

I had a great time on this route. Pitch one is a great long mostly trad line with a few bolts to clip. Pitch two-wooh nice slippy squeeze chimney type of deal with bolts and some gear if you want (all over body work-out)/fun though. Pitch 3 is slabby with a roof type move. Pitch 4 has a roof type move then slab. Pitch 5 slab/bulge/slab. Pitch 6 is just a shorty to get to the top. Very fun with a variety of climbing.
By Dana Ernst
Dec 17, 2013

This is an okay route, but personally my least favorite on the wall. Pitch 5 is excellent and pitch 4 is quite good, too. My partner and I didn't enjoy pitch 2 very much. Also, I don't recommend climbing the second pitch with a pack on.