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Unknown climb in LCC gully East of Fin (Wasatch)
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By j c sanders
Nov 10, 2013

My friend, Mike, and I were looking for Wave of Mutilation but ended up on something else. We were on the West side of the gully to the East of the Fin. Just where the West wall of the gully turns right (there are some good looking bolted climbs off a huge ledge 80 ft up and leading up to the ledge - including one with glue in bolts) there is a large ugly leaning chimney. Just down from the chimney we climbed a steep crack through brush - 5.9 ish - to a ledge with a piton (Clog) and bolt belay. A finger traverse over steep ground with very poor feet (5.11 ish) led past a small cam, nut, knifeblade (which pulled in a fall) to a good chicken head and nice bolts which led right and up over 5.10 ground to a bolt belay with rap tat. Another pitch led right hand traversing an easy crack to a loose gully climbed to a natural belay. We passed a double bolt rap anchor with black tat on this pitch. Up and over to a mantle on a good chicken head by a bolt, up to another bolt with a leaver biner. We could see no obvious direction from there despite some exploring up and down and across and down climbed. We scrambled up the gully to a tennis court size ledge and rapped of the East edge of it off great chain anchors beneath a good looking bolt route up a blunt arÍte. Walked back to our packs passing the good looking bolt routes to our packs. Any idea what we were on and what the other bolted routes are?


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By Stevie Nacho
From Utah
Nov 11, 2013

You have any photos?

A few of my buddies and I climbed a bunch of routes in that gulley. Upon further review of your description, you climbed a combination of two routes along with the first bushy pitch being your first ascent. Both "jig heads" and "the odd couple" start in the very corner of te gully past some bolted sporty moves that take you to the ledge with the pin and bolt. After the next pitch of the steep traversing crack you go directly up from the belay for "the odd couple" or you traverse the crack for "jig heads." The rap tat you passed on "jig heads" is to descend. We didn't climb the wideness above. The bolt with a biner is the very end of "the odd couple" which involves clipping the biner and downclimbing to the ledge. The Wave of Mutilation starts down the same side of the gulley. You can find a fixed pin that marks the start.
You rapped down Fish for Brains and Men of Mayhem. THe glue in route is the Pabst Schmear.

Email me some photos if you have any.

buildingeye@gmail.com


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By j c sanders
Nov 12, 2013

Thanks Stevie. There is obviously a bunch of stuff up there I had no clue about. A good little adventure for us but the direct brushy start is certainly not worth repeating. We took no pictures but your description sounds spot on. Thought some local could help us out with identifying our aimless wanderings.


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