|By j c sanders |
Nov 10, 2013
My friend, Mike, and I were looking for Wave of Mutilation but ended up on something else. We were on the West side of the gully to the East of the Fin. Just where the West wall of the gully turns right (there are some good looking bolted climbs off a huge ledge 80 ft up and leading up to the ledge - including one with glue in bolts) there is a large ugly leaning chimney. Just down from the chimney we climbed a steep crack through brush - 5.9 ish - to a ledge with a piton (Clog) and bolt belay. A finger traverse over steep ground with very poor feet (5.11 ish) led past a small cam, nut, knifeblade (which pulled in a fall) to a good chicken head and nice bolts which led right and up over 5.10 ground to a bolt belay with rap tat. Another pitch led right hand traversing an easy crack to a loose gully climbed to a natural belay. We passed a double bolt rap anchor with black tat on this pitch. Up and over to a mantle on a good chicken head by a bolt, up to another bolt with a leaver biner. We could see no obvious direction from there despite some exploring up and down and across and down climbed. We scrambled up the gully to a tennis court size ledge and rapped of the East edge of it off great chain anchors beneath a good looking bolt route up a blunt arÍte. Walked back to our packs passing the good looking bolt routes to our packs. Any idea what we were on and what the other bolted routes are?