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Casual Sex T 
Flake Route T 
Unknown T,TR 
Unknown Chimney TR 

Unknown Chimney 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,468
Submitted By: Ryan Myers on Oct 25, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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The Unknown Chimney

2016 Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Deep chimney just to the left of Casual Sex. Can be awkward and tight. Lack of pro available.

Location 

Just to the left of the route Casual Sex.

Protection 

Big bros maybe? Probably best to just TR. Bolted Anchors on top.


Photos of Unknown Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: cliff
cliff
Rock Climbing Photo: kliu
kliu
Rock Climbing Photo: awkward start!
awkward start!
Rock Climbing Photo: almost there
almost there
Rock Climbing Photo: Awkward Chimney
Awkward Chimney
Rock Climbing Photo: Toproping the Chimney at Practice Cliffs. Lots of ...
Toproping the Chimney at Practice Cliffs. Lots of ...

Comments on Unknown Chimney Add Comment
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By JeffMK
Oct 29, 2014

Climbed this last weekend. It was definitely awkward, slick, but fun nonetheless. I felt more effort went into climbing this then it took to do all 17 miles of the Narrows the next day. A great challenge and in a cool location. If you ask the shuttle drivers nicely they will drop you off right at the trailhead. The petroglyphs all around the site were really cool too. My only heads up for anyone looking to TR this is that the anchor placement is not for the feint of heart as you have to splay across the chasm of the chimney to set the anchor, which included a lot of leaning out forward over the potential 30' fall into the crack. That being said, cleaning it by topping out was much less hectic (for me at least) and getting up and over the chimney to the ledge to walk over to Casual Sex to rap off was much easier from that position.
By MJK
Jun 14, 2016

Agree that the bolts are in a slightly precarious position. The top of the cliff also has a lot of loose dirt and/or moderately sized rocks. Take care not to kick debris over the edge. Definitely ask the driver where the trail is - we got lost after prematurely taking an incorrect trail.

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