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The Bookend
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Blood Feud 
Bombay Chimney 
Climb of the Ancient Mariner 
Corinthian Column 
Great Dihedral, The 
Grovelly Chimney 
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Knight's Gambit Variation 
Labor of Lust 
Orange Julius 
Pineapple Juice 
Sicilian Defense 
Sorcerer -- Mariner Traverse 
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Sun King 
Unknown Chasm 
Wide Gauge 
Winds of Fortune 
Unsorted Routes:

Unknown Chasm 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Chip Salaun
Page Views: 536
Submitted By: Kurt Johnson on Oct 29, 2006
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The Bookend. Unknown Chasm is the second chimney f...
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The second to last of the long deep groves on the west end of the Bookend, this unknown gem sees few ascents, which is too bad for such a fun route.

Start at the bottom of Bombay Chimney (the next chimney to the left) and climb up about 40 feet to a large ledge on your right. Walk across the ledge and set your belay in the chimney.

Climb the chimney (lots of good holds to augment your chimney technique) and stretch the rope out until you get to a belay stance right as the chimney opens up and becomes flared.

Either stem or squeeze your way straight up, or follow flakes and face holds up the right wall of the chimney until it narrows and you can get back in. Head up easier ground to the top.

  • Soon after leaving the belay, the overall angle of this pitch eases off a bit, and rumor has it that someone fell and got their butt wedged in the chimney, getting stuck for hours.


To get there, take the trail to the Bookmark and continue west (left) until you get to the base of the Bookend. Continue west until you get to the major chimneys and look for the very last one (more or less the end of the formation).


You can get by with a standard rack, but it's nice to have a #4 and #5 Camalot.

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