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 ADVANCED
The Bookend
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blood Feud T 
Bombay Chimney T 
Climb of the Ancient Mariner T,S 
Corinthian Column T 
Great Dihedral, The T 
Grovelly Chimney T 
Handbook T 
Hot Licks T 
Knight's Gambit T 
Knight's Gambit Variation T 
Labor of Lust T 
Orange Julius T 
Pineapple Juice T,S 
Sicilian Defense T 
Sorcerer T 
Sorcerer -- Mariner Traverse T 
Sorcerer's Apprentice T 
Southern Cross T 
Strawberry Short Cake T 
Summer Festival T 
Sun King T 
Tarantula T 
Treebeard T 
Truth T 
Unknown Chasm T 
Wide Gauge T 
Winds of Fortune T 
Unsorted Routes:

Unknown Chasm 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Chip Salaun
Page Views: 562
Submitted By: Kurt Johnson on Oct 29, 2006

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The Bookend. Unknown Chasm is the second chimney f...
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Description 

The second to last of the long deep groves on the west end of the Bookend, this unknown gem sees few ascents, which is too bad for such a fun route.

Start at the bottom of Bombay Chimney (the next chimney to the left) and climb up about 40 feet to a large ledge on your right. Walk across the ledge and set your belay in the chimney.

Climb the chimney (lots of good holds to augment your chimney technique) and stretch the rope out until you get to a belay stance right as the chimney opens up and becomes flared.

Either stem or squeeze your way straight up, or follow flakes and face holds up the right wall of the chimney until it narrows and you can get back in. Head up easier ground to the top.

  • Soon after leaving the belay, the overall angle of this pitch eases off a bit, and rumor has it that someone fell and got their butt wedged in the chimney, getting stuck for hours.


Location 

To get there, take the trail to the Bookmark and continue west (left) until you get to the base of the Bookend. Continue west until you get to the major chimneys and look for the very last one (more or less the end of the formation).


Protection 

You can get by with a standard rack, but it's nice to have a #4 and #5 Camalot.



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