Unknown Chasm  5.7

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches Consensus:  5.7 [details] FA:  Chip Salaun Submitted By:  Kurt Johnson on Oct 29, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

The Bookend. Unknown Chasm is the second chimney f...

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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

The second to last of the long deep groves on the west end of the Bookend, this unknown gem sees few ascents, which is too bad for such a fun route.

Start at the bottom of Bombay Chimney (the next chimney to the left) and climb up about 40 feet to a large ledge on your right. Walk across the ledge and set your belay in the chimney.

Climb the chimney (lots of good holds to augment your chimney technique) and stretch the rope out until you get to a belay stance right as the chimney opens up and becomes flared.

Either stem or squeeze your way straight up, or follow flakes and face holds up the right wall of the chimney until it narrows and you can get back in. Head up easier ground to the top.

• Soon after leaving the belay, the overall angle of this pitch eases off a bit, and rumor has it that someone fell and got their butt wedged in the chimney, getting stuck for hours.

Location 

To get there, take the trail to the Bookmark and continue west (left) until you get to the base of the Bookend. Continue west until you get to the major chimneys and look for the very last one (more or less the end of the formation).

Protection 

You can get by with a standard rack, but it's nice to have a #4 and #5 Camalot.